Golden Dragon’s flavorful fire

Greer Wylder

A small spot on Harbor Boulevard since 1975, the Golden Dragon

restaurant remains a bit of a secret, which is too bad. Considering

the majority of local restaurants are quick-casual and chains, the

Golden Dragon is an anomaly in Costa Mesa: a casual but fine dining

experience that attracts families and regular customers.

It’s the kind of restaurant where regulars call the owners, Yaun

Der and Chi Yun “Key” Wang, by their first names.

The Wangs’ sons, William and John, share managing

responsibilities. Despite being tucked inside a pink-stucco building

that’s behind a check-cashing operation, the familiarity and the

extensive selection of quality Chinese Mandarin food have helped

maintain the restaurant’s success for nearly three decades.

Mandarin cuisine is referred to as the cooking style of the

Beijing region. Even in China, there’s confusion and disagreement

among the four main culinary borders that also include central-east,

Shanghai; southwestern, Sichuan; and southeastern, Canton.

Mandarin-style refers to China’s north region, where the main

crops include wheat, millet, sorghum, peanuts, corn and soybeans.

Since the area grows wheat-based foods, not rice, its cuisine focuses

on noodles, dumplings, and baked and steamed breads. Traditional

meals often feature vegetables, soups, tofu, and fish that are fried,

stewed or braised. Dishes are oily, with strong garlic, ginger and

vinegar flavors.

The Golden Dragon’s menu is broader than Mandarin-style; there’s

even Chinese Kentucky deep-fried chicken in a spicy garlic sauce

($8.50); Hong Kong-style pan-fried noodles with chicken or seafood

($9.95 to $12.95); and China’s spiciest Szechuan cuisine --

generously flavored with garlic, scallions and chilies. Szechuan

choices include chicken ($8.50), beef ($8.75) and shrimp ($12.50),

all served with sauteed vegetables.

A few dishes require a one- or two-day advance notice. Those

include the famous Peking duck, lobster and steamed fish. The duck is

served whole, roasted, de-boned and sliced. It’s accompanied with

steamed Chinese crepes, green onion and a Peking sauce ($28).

From the extensive regular menu and changing chef special menu,

traditional Chinese foods available include appetizers, soups,

seafoods, chicken, pork and beef choices. Vegetarian choices include

tofu selections, egg foo yung, noodles and vegetable dishes. Most

popular dishes include the honey-glazed walnut shrimp ($13.50). In

China, walnuts are believed to have multiple medicinal benefits. The

shrimp, lightly fried, are served alongside caramelized walnuts and

steamed broccoli. And the sliced, glazed Peking combines scallions,

mushrooms and onions ($8.75).

The restaurant offers a full bar, a main dining room that can seat

up to 138 guests and a private dining room that can seat up to 100

(comfortably 80) guests.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.