New restaurant won’t be a secret for long

Glori Fickling

A little more than two months after launching their sophisticated

restaurant, hush, on Coast Highway, owners Chuck Rock and Danny Reyes

have appointed a new executive chef. We are now blessed with the

innovative creations of Phillip Kaufman who brings to hush some

exciting and innovative recipes. These are gradually being added to

the original menu, which is geared to seasonal alterations.

Innovative is certainly the operative term for Kaufman’s cuisine.

Each dish is a picture-pretty presentation supremely centered on

oversize plates, many exuding a flavorsome French flair.

Kaufman’s bill of fare has been designed specifically to enhance

the prestigious wine selections for which this elegant dining

establishment is fast gaining a reputation. Many of these vintages,

some priced up to thousands of dollars, are from entrepreneur Chuck

Rock’s private collection. They are displayed in a vertical

temperature-controlled unit leading into the cocktail lounge and

again in the main vault where some 10,000 choices from around the

world are on view. Here, at the rear of the bar, the rare collection

is arranged behind a large window viewable from a private dining

banquette available for distinguished parties of up to six and eight

guests.

Known locally for his past performances as sous chef at the late,

great Towers restaurant atop the Surf & Sand Resort and at the former

Dana Point Resort now known as the Laguna Cliffs Marriott, Kaufman

also honed his considerable skills at the Culinary Institute of

America in Hyde Park, New York, exclusive L’Auberge in Sedona, Ariz.,

ultimately gaining executive chef status in illustrious San Francisco

establishments.

Utilizing rare ingredients, such as the black “Forbidden rice” he

discovered in the Bay Area’s Chinatown, is a signature of Kaufman’s

unique creations. The fascinating grain, said to have been served

exclusively to the emperor of Japan centuries ago, shows up on the

menu as a delectable appetizer. A base of the creamy mixture,

thickened only with a reduction of chicken stock, herbs and red wine,

beds a single plump scallop sprinkled with truffle jus. It is an

amazingly unforgettable taste sensation.

One original twist on soups is eggplant potage floating a perky

mushroom, the velvety broth stimulating one’s palate for epicurean

delights to come. Tender pink filet of veal, for instance, is

surrounded with delicate mashed potatoes blended with a touch of

cream and a whisk of foie gras fat rather than butter for a livening

accent.

Fresh peas and tiny green beans complement this tempting entree.

Adding two or three new appetizers or entrees every few days, the

enterprising chef’s ultimate objective is to complete an entirely new

menu by mid-May. A recent opener which rated accolades starred spicy

seared ahi slices on a puddle of ginger nage accented with julliened

vegetables and lemon-scented olive oil.

Equally intriguing ahi tartare is embellished with toasted pine

nuts, diced apples, an apple balsamic vinaigrette reduction and

Habanero sesame, this winner presented with crisp sesame crackers.

In the dessert department, talented Rocil Tomayo continues to

create such splendiferous finales as refreshing chilled rhubarb soup

temptingly wafted with rose water parfait, creamy tira misu and

caramelized banana strudel.

Reservations are strongly suggested, especially on weekends when

the dining room, cocktail lounge and spacious deck are jammed to

capacity.

NEWS BITES

Beaches and Cream is Laguna’s newest refreshment mecca. It’s on

the former premises of Mama’s Lebanese Kitchen, a patio-fronted space

at 540 S. Coast Highway in The Collection downtown. The creation of

energetic Jill Hanoka and her charming engineer husband, Steve, this

bright new attraction offers an array of sandwiches, soups, salads

and fresh-roasted coffees as well as Lappert’s Hawaiian ice creams

and more. It is open every day, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., but until 10 p.m.

on weekends. More to come later. Call (949) 494-9306 for more

information.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].