The touch of Claes is a regal crown at Hotel
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Glori Fickling
A Laguna Beach landmark dating back to the late 1800s, Hotel Laguna
has hosted such illustrious turn-of-the-century luminaries as motion
picture stars Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks, Humphrey Bogart and
Errol Flynn. While the restaurant, which boasts an unparalleled view
of the blue Pacific, has undergone innumerable incarnations over the
decades, none in the past has been more upscale than the present
incarnation, Claes.
Named for principal, Claes Anderson, who acquired the property in
1986, the sophisticated dining room is noted for its specialty
seafood preparations and prime steaks. Anderson’s menu credo, “the
cuisine should provide the pleasure, the wine happiness,” reflects
his dedication to wines in both his private and restaurant cellars. A
phenomenal 10,000 bottles are listed in the restaurant’s
comprehensive book, many handsomely showcased in the little gem of a
wine cellar, an intimate room available for parties up to 10.
The opulent dining room, against a background of rolling surf
beyond the sand-fronted windows, is enhanced with impeccable
amenities. Beautiful service platters are an introduction to the
elegant China to come, each shining dish gracefully encircled with a
curled fish border. Plates and bowls are designed in imaginative
shapes to complement individual appetizers, entrees and desserts.
Butter is in little silver-domed ramekins. Accompanying breads are
graciously proffered by waiters ever at the ready to anticipate
guest’s desires.
Recently appointed executive chef David E. Mack, who arrived by
way of the Four Seasons Hotel, has orchestrated a comprehensive bill
of fare in conjunction with chef de cuisine Josh Gil and sous chef
Jon Dwyer. The team has also created provocative introductory bites
to tantalize guests as they peruse menus. A recent complimentary
morsel was luscious smoked trout perched on tiny endive leaves, a
tasty teaser with a cocktail or a glass of wine.
Among a dozen innovative preludes at $8 to $17, is a quartet of
signature dishes marked with the Claes signature. There is lobster
bisque en croute, Florida rock shrimp cakes, house smoked salmon and
seared scallops, the latter in curried butter sauce with fried fennel
and serrano ham crisps. Aficionados of steamed mussels will be
impressed with the tender plump black bivalves presented here in a
capacious bowl, the accompanying broth enhanced with smoked extra
virgin olive oil and herbs de Provence, all generously studded with
crunchy pine nuts, briny capers and bits of fresh tomato.
Wine-pairing suggestions are listed with meticulously orchestrated
main courses. The octave of entrees comes fresh from the ocean for
$29 to $33, at market price for 1 1/2 pound Maine lobster roasted in
butter. This, sided with asparagus, morel mushrooms, pad Thai noodles
in lobster cognac sauce, is most noteworthy among Claes seafood
specialties.
Not to be overlooked, either, is oven-roasted sole with
langoustines picturesquely presented in a huge round tilted bowl
which expedites placing shells neatly out of the way at uppermost
area of the dish. A whole langoustine lavishly crowns the lemongrass
broth-seasoned presentation sided with fresh asparagus spears.
Land selections include steaks, lamb, pork and veal. Claes marked
specialties are grilled hanger steak and lobster tempura with Asian
slaw, jasmine risotto cake and kung pao glaze; and a 9-ounce prime
filet of beef au poivre seasoned with Szechwan peppercorn sauce,
truffle potato risotto, butter poached baby vegetables embellishing
the dish.
Rounding out meat categories are rack of lamb, veal chops, porcini
crusted pork tenderloin and prime grade New York steak, each defined
with individually imaginative accompaniments. Pork tenderloin, for
instance, poses lean plump pink morsels on a huge, rippled square
plate that frames a mashed potato rosette sprouting slender scallion
slivers next to a mound of corn/sunchoke hash, all resting on a pool
of savory mushroom laden sauce.
An impressive grand finale is the picturesque platter of assorted
confections and ice creams embellished with a white chocolate sail
detailed with swirls of dark chocolate. On Friday and Saturday nights
you may enjoy coffee and after-dinner drinks in the lounge where
charming Shannon Parks and John Walsh entertain guests in a cozy,
living room style setting replete with crackling fireplace, cushy
couches, lovely table lamps and pretty paintings.
A sunny ambience pervades Claes daytimes when a few favorite
dinner entrees are offered at considerably lesser prices along with
tempting salads, sandwiches and appetizers. Sunday brunch for $18
features assorted buffet treats and a choice of eleven table d’hote
entrees.
News Bites
Another of those surprise box suppers at (seven degrees) prefaced
the second Thursday Cinema event in March. Complementing a
Cubano-themed movie, Anastasia Cafe executive chef Jerry Baker wowed
guests with big, square Kalamata olive bread sandwiches stuffed with
roast pork, ham and sided with a delectable black bean and corn salad
intoxicatingly dressed with roasted tomatillos and habanera-chili
vinaigrette. Fruit studded pina colada macaroons accompanied decaf
for a sweet apres-movie treat. Phone 497-8903 or 497-1212.
* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has
written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].
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