Tabu Grill is a tantalizing tropical gem

Glori Fickling

Boasting two delightfully different dining ventures within a brief

month, our town graciously welcomed its newest star the last Tuesday

in February. Tabu Grill is an intimate bit of tropical splendor

created by enterprising restaurateur Nancy Wilhelm, best known

locally as principal of the late Kachina downstairs on Forest Avenue.

Her equally talented partners in this new venture are Christine

Hallen-Berg, who designed the enticing contemporary Island-style

setting, and partner Chuck Bixler, whose wine selection input is

noteworthy.

Posed at the south end of Laguna Beach, on the site of the former

Dexter’s, Tabu Grill is softly illuminated with a plethora of candles

that flicker softly everywhere. Seven tiny alcoves in a

stone-and-concrete wall at the entry contain little glass candle

holders. The same candles are perched on every table, each reflected

in massive mirrors dramatically framed along one wall to create an

illusion of space. With the capacity for a mere 35 diners, this

cleverly manipulated ploy adds drama. Similarly subdued lighting

comes by way of fascinating multiple overhead strings suspended from

eel traps imported from Bali, the ends sprouting tiny clear light

bulbs.

Some dozen seats surround a bar facing the display kitchen,

allowing guests to view the drama of creative cookery. From here come

deft preparations of dinners and desserts created by innovated

executive chef Jeff Platt. As a qualified sommelier, Platt also

designed the select wine list of some 50 vintages, a dozen or so

available by the glass.

Custom-made tables in dark lacquered woods are meticulously set

with square basket weave-trimmed leather placemats, heavy

bamboo-patterned cutlery and sparkling stemmed goblets, all carrying

out the inviting romantic ambience. White porcelain plates and bowls

in innovative shapes handsomely frame the thoughtfully conceived

menu. In keeping with the intimate setting there are a mere seven

appetizers at $6 to $12, an octave of entrees from $23 to $35, a

quintet of confections at $7 each and four dessert wines, $6, $8 and

$16.

To pique your appetite, the welcoming treat of creamy leek mousse

on a crisp toast cube, or perhaps a crunchy tempura asparagus spear,

will prepare your taste buds for dinner. For starters opt for steamed

mussels in creamy lemon grass Szechwan broth laced with kernels of

Forbidden rice. This appetizer is so delectably substantial, it would

make for a satisfying light supper simply teamed with crusty bread

and a glass of chardonnay. Grilled Diver scallops take on a new twist

with tangerine butter atop citrus salad. Ahi carpaccio and grilled

endive salad is wafted with herbed truffle essence. And five-spice

foam crowns cups of steaming pear-parsnip soup.

Among entrees come a trio of steaks. The succulent 16-ounce

bone-in rib eye is grilled to perfection and posed atop chunky

roasted vegetables in savory demi-glaze. The grilled New York cut is

sided with bleu cheese macaroni and red wine essence. The trendy Kobe

flat iron steak is teamed with truffle green beans and portabella

mushrooms in cabernet sauce. Platt takes an unusual approach, too,

with yellowfin tuna complementing the cut with a dusting of shitake

and cilantro/chive/pesto-seasoned gnocchi. Spicy squash broth lends

contrast to tender grilled scallops and shrimp with angel hair pasta.

And tomato almond sauce seasons fried chicken breast.

For a flavorful finale, fried plantain funnel cake drips

deliciously with vanilla bean ice cream. On the lighter side try

espresso pot de creme with vanilla crisps. Twenty-year-old Taylor

Fladgate tawny port is one of two port wines and as many muscats

suggested as “sippers with dessert or sippers as dessert.” Sidewalk

seating fronting Coast Highway promises refreshing al fresco dining

as spring approaches. An appreciated dividend this unique Laguna

Beach treasure further brings us is a capacious 16-space parking area

directly next door north of Tabu Grill.

NEWS BITES

This is for Thursday Art Walk guests who inquired. The tantalizing

buffet presented at (7 degrees) last week was catered by Forest

Avenue’s one and only Sundried Tomato. Among the delectable treats

were steamed artichokes and tender asparagus spears accompanied by

savory garlic aioli, pinwheels of an Italian peasant sandwich, little

burnt onion tarts and pesto-tomato tortes. Delicious! Phone 494-3312.

* Suggestions and questions may be e-mailed to [email protected]

or phone 494-4710. Glori Fickling’s news and views columns have

appeared in a variety of magazines and newspapers since 1966.