St. Paddy’s fare done right

Greer Wylder

Looking for green hair, a strong pint with a good ol’ jig and the

biggest Irish party of the year? Muldoon’s Dublin Pub & Celtic Bar

celebrates St. Patrick’s Day, with festivities that will start at 10

a.m., though die-hard revelers start lining up early, and the pints

of ale are poured all day long.

The Van Diemans will play traditional Irish music from 10 a.m. to

3 p.m., then from 5 to 10 p.m. The Shinanegans will perform

traditional Irish tunes, along with modern hits from U2 and the

Cranberries. There will be a special St. Patrick’s menu, including

some great selections: filet O’Hara, fish and chips, and corned beef

and cabbage. Unlike some pubs, Muldoon’s doesn’t go completely wild

serving green beer. The apple martini is the designated green

cocktail. Because of its popularity, St. Patrick’s Day is the one day

Muldoon’s doesn’t accept reservations.

Throughout its 30-year history, Muldoon’s has celebrated hundreds

of holidays, parties, corporate events and offered free live concerts

on its charming courtyard. It could be the most festive restaurant in

town, and it still has original owners, Ronald and Sindi Schwartz.

The beloved Irish pub, complete with dark oak bars, warm

fireplaces, an essential dart board and Dublin art, remains a locals

hangout. Even its familiar bulldog logo, stained-glass windows have

been there since day one. The appealing layout features a sunken

slate courtyard entrance with a towering Sycamore tree, and an

easy-to-miss green Irish clover set in the slate to greet customers.

The patio serves lunch and dinner, and has live bands from time to

time -- mostly Irish bands including the Young Dubliners and the

Fenians. Then there’s the comfortable Dublin Bar that also serves

“pub plate” snacks, with live entertainment Friday and Saturday from

9 p.m. to 1 a.m. and Sunday from 6 to 9 p.m., and a dining room with

a grill kitchen. The dinner menu is served in all rooms.

Muldoon’s most dramatic improvement arrived two years ago, when it

completed the inviting Celtic Bar. The former storage space was

converted into a large bar, eating and dancing area that’s open from

5 p.m. until closing. It can be reserved for private parties, and is

a popular choice for wedding rehearsal dinners, graduations,

Christmas parties and wakes. In 1999, former Newport Beach Mayor

Dennis O’Neil inducted the “wall of fame” that features photographs

of famous guests. A few displayed include author Ray Bradbury,

presidential candidate John Kerry, actor Tom Berenger, the late Chick

Hearn and Gaelic Storm, the “party band” that appeared in “Titanic.”

Each day, Muldoon’s bakes nearly 300 loaves of its famous Irish

soda bread. The complimentary quick bread’s sweet flavor comes from

sugar, currants, caraway seed and buttermilk, and it’s served with

plenty of sweet butter. In its “famous fish and chips” recipe, only

fresh Pacific red snapper is served with pub fries, homemade tartar

sauce, malt vinegar and lemon ($19.50). Corned beef entrees and

sandwiches serve lean cuts -- the premium center of beef brisket

only. Corned beef comes with fresh green cabbage, carrots, peas and

mashed potatoes ($19.95); or in its Irish Derby sandwich served on

rye, with your choice of chips, fries, coleslaw or potato salad

($11.95).

The lunch and dinner menu does stray from traditional Irish

dishes. Unfortunately, it succumbs to a few dishes found on nearly

every menu in town: Oriental chicken salad ($10.95); grilled chicken

salad with China peas and candied pecans ($10.75); veggie burger

($10.45); chicken wrap ($9.50); and “Irish” nachos ($8.50). Yet its

best dishes are authentic Irish recipes: Irish stew ($18.95); Fergus

McGuiness’ Shepherd’s pie ($19.95); and its award-winning, certified

Angus beef burgers -- seven half-pound burgers offering a variety of

toppings including oak-smoked bacon, crumbled bleu cheese and sauteed

onions, and melted Swiss cheese and sauteed mushrooms. They’re served

with a choice of pub fries or chips; coleslaw, baked beans, potato

salad or fruit ($10.15 to $10.45).

Dessert choices include its famous apple pie, made with Granny

Smith apples and a drizzle of caramel, and fresh whipped cream on the

side ($7); and homemade Mudd pie, with drizzled real chocolate,

coffee ice cream, caramel and chopped roasted almonds ($7.50).

Muldoon’s serves seven beers on tap, including Guinness stout,

Bass ale and Harp lager. Handcrafted beers are brewed in Irvine and

include Lusty Wheat, Bullschwartz Amber Ale and Honey Blonde.

Award-winning Irish coffees are made with Tullamore Dew whiskey and

fresh whipped cream. The glass is rimmed with powdered sugar. Its

secret ingredient is a touch of cocoa.

The “Annual Sexiest Kilt Competition” that debuted last year

happens at 2 p.m. on Sunday. A panel of lady judges, including former

Miss Ireland Olivia Tracey, will choose the winner. It’s hosted by

Chris Pierce, from Orange County’s Celtic rock band, The Fenians.

Kilt-wearing enthusiasts can contact manager Mary Murphy at (949)

640-4110, or by e-mail at [email protected].

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.