Building a culinary empire

Greer Wylder

Tim and Liza Goodell, both accomplished chefs, met while working for

star chef Gary Danko.

It was at the prestigious dining room at the Ritz-Carlton, San

Francisco -- the only North American hotel and restaurant to earn

Mobil’s five-star rating and AAA’s five-diamond rating.

What a great place to fall in love.

They married and relocated to Newport Beach in 1991, where Tim

grew up. Here they enriched their cooking experience: Liza worked at

the Four Seasons Hotel in Newport Beach; Tim was a chef at the

Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel. In 1994, they opened the

French-influenced Aubergine. It was in a tiny cottage once home to

Allen Beck Florist at Newport’s quiet Cannery Village.

The past 10 years, the Goodells have built a local culinary

empire. Soon after Aubergine opened, it was rated as one of Southern

California’s finest restaurants. They added Troquet in 1997, an

upscale French bistro at South Coast Plaza, and 2002 was their

craziest year, when they opened three restaurants and a wonderful

bakery.

The Red Pearl Kitchen debuted in Huntington Beach. It strayed off

the familiar French cuisine map as a hip and sexy Chinese restaurant.

The Lodge at the Camp in Costa Mesa serves American comfort food in a

retro-stylish setting. It’s adjacent to the Village Bakery, where the

Goodells offer the same fine bakery items found at their restaurants.

At the contemporary chic Viceroy Hotel in Santa Monica, they oversee

the Whist. This is a fun and sophisticated California-French

restaurant furnished with vintage and modern designs.

Both Goodells share restaurant duties. Liza’s in charge of what

matters outside the kitchen. She constantly seeks new ways to improve

the ambience, menus, service and concept of each location. She even

meticulously finds the latest and greatest serving dishes that

accentuate beautiful foods. Current serving ware favorites include

fine French Bernardaud porcelain; contemporary and avant-garde

designs from Rosenthal; and Annieglass, handcrafted dinnerware that’s

evocatively asymmetrical and can be edged in 24-karat gold. Tim

rotates from restaurant to restaurant; his cooking schedule is never

planned. Food & Wine Magazine recently named him one of the “Best

Chefs in America.” Bon Appetit Magazine says he’s one “to watch”

among the next generation of superstar chefs.

When the gifted culinary couple dines out locally, they don’t have

a favorite spot. Their choice depends on their mood. When they’re

with their children, they frequent Ruby’s Diner; they absolutely love

El Matador for Mexican food and margaritas, on Newport Boulevard in

Costa Mesa; and for fine dining, they like steaks at Fleming’s at

Fashion Island. Other favorite restaurants are in Los Angeles: Sona

on La Cienega in West Hollywood; A.O.C. on West 3rd Street; and

Opaline on Beverly Boulevard.

Aubergine’s recent renaissance came from the need to shed the

“special occasion only” image.

“It just killed us,” Liza said. “Most people considered Aubergine

a place to dine at once a year, for birthdays and anniversaries. Up

until recently, it only had a prix fixe tasting menu. Now there’s a

more accessible a la carte menu, along with a chef’s tasting menu

that changes daily -- nine courses ($105).

“[With] our new a la carte menu [people] can walk in for salad,

fresh fish and share a dessert. It’s user-friendly,” Liza said.

The delicious a la carte menu features seven starters, with

selections that include Fruitwood smoked Idaho trout served with

Applewood smoked bacon and potato tartlette, wilted frisee and wasabi

cream ($16); and New York state foie gras sauteed and Torchon

(superior ham) terrine of Satsuma tangerine and Beaumes de Venise

($28). Five entree selections include rouget barbet (goatfish) with

Taylor Bay scallops, Manila clams, Bouchet mussels, baby fennel,

chorizo and blood orange ($26); and a trio of Oregon rabbit, a

sausage of rabbit with foie gras, sauteed rack bacon-wrapped saddle,

glazed carrots and thyme-scented jus ($32). There’s also an

impressive cheese menu and four desserts ($10 each).

Desserts include a lemon meringue parfait with a cornmeal crust

and caramelized blood oranges and a Valrhona chocolate souffle cake,

prune Armagnac ice cream and bittersweet chocolate veloute. Dinners

end with adorable mignardises, miniature pastries designed to

accompany coffee and after-dinner drinks.

There’s also a new bar menu with the same premium gourmet foods at

less extravagant prices, which can be served on the patio. The

nontraditional menu features a cheeseburger with black truffle steak

fries ($16); house-made duck prosciutto flatbread local burrata

(premium mozzarella cheese), roasted piquillo peppers and baby

arugula ($14); and a soup and sandwich, tomato soup with basil pesto

and Manchego sandwich ($14). Other items include artisan cheeses,

homemade chips, smoked porcini veloute and pate.

In the kitchen, the Goodells give culinary freedom to Jason

Niederkorn, a young chef from San Francisco’s California Culinary

Academy. His preference is creating gustation menus -- a parade of

innovative French-inspired dishes -- for adventurous diners. The

Goodells and Niederkorn work together and present food with a

consistent and exceptional quality. Together, they seek out the

finest purveyors and ingredients to make masterpiece dishes: Cervena

venison, Prairie Grove Pork, Humboldt Fog goat milk cheese; in-season

Perigold truffles, Maine prawns, and Hudson Valley foie gras.

Coming soon for Valentine’s Day is a special weekend menu served

Feb. 13 through Feb. 15. The five-course menu is $125 per person.

Aubergine offers indoor and outdoor seating. There’s a small front

and larger back patio, which seats 20 comfortably. A large dinner

party menu is also available.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.