Taco Loco is anything but crazy

Glori Fickling

One of the more unusual restaurant success stories is the phenomenal

tale of Gonzalo Rebollar whose popular Taco Loco bustles with

activity from 11 a.m. until midnight every day and two hours later on

weekends.

When his career was in full swing with the giant El Torito

corporation, this forward-thinking entrepreneur suddenly launched his

own little Mexican sidewalk cafe in an offbeat area on Coast Highway

on a former Hari Krishna site. Then, despite the amusement of

skeptics, he doubled his space within a mere two years expanding from

five tables to seating as many as 60 guests, all the while utilizing

the same tiny 4-foot by 4-foot kitchen.

This enterprising principal, a native of Mexico City, started his

career early on, soon reaching an executive position with his

all-time mentor Fouad Zahidy, general manager of famed Las Brisas.

When Taco Loco was launched in 1987 Rebollar immediately converted

his personal image from polished businessman to rumpled hippy replete

with long hair and scruffy beard. He introduced the delicious tastes

and healthful merits of fish tacos to our artistic community and it

was not long before Rebollar attracted a savvy young crowd, avid

customers whose own children continue to enjoy the affordable fare

and inviting alfresco atmosphere.

Among dedicated customers are members of some renowned musical

groups whose multiple members are said to book rooms across the

street at Vacation Village simply to have access to Taco Loco’s

extensive menu.

And extensive is the operative word. Blackened ingredients are the

top favorites, with mushrooms and tofu most unusual among more

expected favorites of fish, chicken, potatoes, shrimp, calamari. This

exceptional variety provides the fillings for 15 tacos prepared on

soft tortillas with guacamole and salsa and ranging in price from a

mere $1.75 to $3.70. A dozen and a half quesadillas folded in blue

corn or flour tortillas with melted cheese are $5.30 to $7.60.

Fifteen salads bedded atop taco chips with lettuce, cilantro dressing

and a sprinkle of cheese are $6.75 to $9.10.

At $8.50 to $10 come a quintet of fajitas tossed with chopped bell

pepper, tomato, onions sauteed in white wine, served with beans and

rice and white or corn tortillas. A pair of Mexican pizzas generously

bed blackened mushrooms and tofu at $6.90 and blackened seafood for

$7.70. A dozen side orders are offered at a cost of 60 centavos for

extra cheese and sour cream to $3.75 for freshly prepared guacamole.

The octave of “burgers” made with similar ingredients are served

on eggless sesame wheat buns. Nachos start at $5.30 with a topping of

melted cheese and go to $7.60 with blackened calamari, shrimp,

swordfish. Do not overlook the piping hot Sopa del Dia. At $2.25 this

tasty black bean soup is liberally scattered with a riot of chopped

vegetables.

Beyond 10 luscious Lappert’s ice creams -- praline pecan and

coconut macadamia fudge among them -- there’s Kuai pie, brownies and

a vegan chocolate cookie, these from $1.60 to $4.00.

Hot and cold beverages include fruit juices, smoothies, herb teas

and something called Sambason, described as an energy drink blending

organic soy milk and apple juice sprinkled with hemp seeds and, for

$3.75, deemed “delicious!”

Attesting to the health consciousness of Rebollar who is a vegan,

his menu advises that “smart teas are not intended for pregnant or

nursing mothers.”

On the other hand, south-of-the-border aficionados are happily

indulged with imported, domestic and non-alcoholic beers, $3.50 to

$4.25, plus a trio wines, $4.00 and $4.25 a pony.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].