Iwata brings authentic Japanese taste

Greer Wylder

Since the 1970s, when Shigeo Iwata visited from Japan, he dreamed of

owning a business in Costa Mesa. He was enamored by Newport’s beaches

and its friendly neighborhoods. It’s his “hometown” in the United

States.

For the past seven years, he’s owned the popular Iwata Sushi &

Seafood in the Valley at Ventura Boulevard’s competitive “sushi row.”

Now, after 15 years’ experience as a respected sushi chef, he is the

chef and owner of Costa Mesa’s newest sushi restaurant: Iwata Sushi &

Seafood on East 17th Street. To ensure high quality, Iwata divides

his time between Costa Mesa and Sherman Oaks.

Iwata Sushi & Seafood fits the classic example of the latest

restaurant trend: the shopping mall genre, where high-quality food is

served in a low-key atmosphere. Iwata transformed the strip mall

space (a former unmemorable sushi restaurant) into an improved,

contemporary sushi bar/Japanese restaurant. Renovations include an

attractive sushi bar for 16 people and tables that seat about 30. A

large table accommodates parties of eight.

Iwata carefully hand selects all fresh fish and prepares original

Japanese-inspired dishes. Both locations serve the same double-sided

menu; one-side features traditional dishes, and the flip-side

features Iwata’s creations. And of course, there’s an a la carte menu

for cut or hand rolls, sashimi and daily specials. The standard

combination plates are an assortment of sushi, tempuras, chicken and

beef teriyaki and grilled Chilean sea bass. They are served in

generous portions with miso soup, steamed rice and green salad.

Almost every combination imaginable can be ordered.

Iwata’s best dishes focus on the seafood. Inventive plates include

halibut carpaccio with delicately sliced halibut sprinkled with lemon

olive oil and pink peppercorns ($8.75); salmon citrus pepper, with

thinly sliced salmon served with yuzu, a Japanese citrus and pink

peppercorn sauce ($8.95); and the jalapeno albacore, a spicy mix of

jalapeno, cilantro and ponzu sauce ($8.75).

His special Japanese entrees include a Chilean sea bass grilled

with a sweet balsamic vinegar, olive oil, ginger and soy sauce

($8.75); steamed baby clams in a soy and garlic laced soup with olive

oil ($8.75); and rich scallops “dynamite,” a combination of scallops,

mushrooms and onion with creamy miso aioli sauce ($5).

Prices: Sashimi costs from $8.75 to $9.50; sushi from $1 to $8.50;

and combinations dinners from $12.50 to $19.95. From the sushi bar:

Dishes cost from $8.75 to $9.50; and Japanese entrees range from

$4.75 to $8.75.

Iwata Sushi & Seafood is open Monday through Friday for lunch from

11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner Monday through Saturday from 5:30

to 10 p.m. 379 E. 17th St. in Costa Mesa. (949) 646-1980.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.