That’s some mountain
Niki Bannister
This summer, my father, Wayne Bannister, and I conquered the
legendary Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Africa. We had previously
climbed the Grand Tetons in Wyoming and hiked every weekend when I
was home from college. But nothing quite prepared me for all of the
emotions I would encounter: excitement, fear, doubt and joy.
After flying to Kenya and experiencing a spectacular safari, our
journey to climb the mountain began. We drove early in the morning
toward Marungu, Tanzania. This country is a distant and mysterious
place to most people. But it will always have a special place in my
heart. It is there that I was able to discover myself on a mountain.
Mt. Kilimanjaro stands 5,895 meters in the sky. It’s one of the
seven summits and has long lured many with its breathtaking hike
through the elements.
Day one: Our group set off with our guides from Nale Moru (1,950
meters). It was a half day’s walk through farmland and forest to
reach first camp at the edge of the Moorland Zone (2,600 meters). The
guides explained that it would be important to walk “pole pole”
(“slowly slowly”) up the mountain because of the altitude. The key to
having a successful climb was to let your body adjust.
Day two: We progressed to “second cave” at 3,400 meters. From
there, we could see the eastern ice fields on the rim of Kibo, the
highest of the three volcanoes and our final destination. After
lunch, we trekked toward the jagged peaks of Mawenzi and reached camp
in the late afternoon at a sheltered valley near Kikelewa Caves
(3,600 meters).
Day three: It was a long and hard hike to Mawenzi Tarn (4,330
meters). Here you could see the superb panoramas of the plains across
the border in Kenya. The night seemed to wrap itself around us so
that you could almost reach up and grab the stars from the sky. I’ve
never seen anything like it.
Day four: We left our attractive campsite to cross the lunar
desert of the “saddle” between Mawenzi and Kibo to reach Kibo
campsite (4,700 meters). It was like Grand Central Station there.
Before, we were one of a few groups on the trail and it felt like our
own adventure, just the mountain and us. Now, it was 100 others and
us.
Day five: The final ascent began at midnight. The rest of the
evening was quiet, with everyone contemplating if we would be able to
make it. This part, by far, was the steepest and most demanding part
of the climb.
When we headed off I tried to keep my spirits high, but my stomach
had butterflies. I didn’t know what to expect from me and from the
mountain. The trail was a series of switchbacks through loose
volcanic scree to reach the crater rim at Gillman’s Point (5,685
meters).
As I write this, I can barely describe it. Picture looking up and
seeing an endless vertical succession of shadows with single lights
moving slowly back and forth. Then, listen to the shuffling and
scraping of the boots on the ground. People were breathing heavily
and getting sick. Some even turned back to go down the mountain. I
just kept on going. I told myself to keep pushing to the next rest
stop and to take one step at a time.
I dug deep and found the drive to do it. I went the last few
hundred feet to Gilman’s Point with the sun slowly rising. It renewed
my hope and energized me.
Many people stop at this point. But I couldn’t have gone all that
way and not tried to make it to the true peak.
From there, it was a three-hour round trip along the rim to Uhuru
Peak (5,896 meters). At this time, the rest of our group was
exhausted and decided to go back down. It was just my dad and I.
Along the way, there were times I doubted I would make it. But as
we passed others who had gotten there, they just smiled and simply
said congratulations. It made me feel like everyone up there was
connected in some way. Once the sign came into vision, I began to
cry. I cried because I was exhausted physically and mentally.
It was amazing that I could do this and to do it with my dad. Time
seemed to be at a standstill up there. The few moments that I spent
up there felt like a lifetime filled with happiness, triumph and joy.
The whole day lasted 15 hours. We came to camp at Horombo (3,720
meters), and day six consisted of a sustained descent to the National
Park gate at Marangu (1,830 meters).
This was simply a trip of a lifetime that I was able to make at
the young age of 20. I am forever grateful to have been able to do
something so metamorphic.
Fittingly, Uhuru Peak means freedom peak. After conquering it, you
have a sense of freedom from all that you thought was impossible and
it gives you the strength and motivation to venture out and try
anything.
Now, I’m back in the real world. I’ve taken all that I’ve learned
on this trip and I’m applying it to my life as a pre-med student at
the University of Illinois in Urbana-Champaign.
* NIKI BANNISTER is a resident Newport Beach.
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