Sundried Tomato Cafe has new taste

Glori Fickling

Following a second anniversary celebration in July, executive chef

Mark Jacobi and partner Rob Quest have just introduced an enticing

new menu at their popular Sundried Tomato Cafe and Catering Company.

Commensurate with this bit of news is the announcement of their

opening earlier this month of a third venue in the heart of San Juan

Capistrano. Their flagship dining destination, launched a dozen years

ago, continues to thrive on Chapman Avenue in Orange.

Charmingly tucked in the corner of Landmark Plaza on Forest

Avenue, the Downtown locale is fronted with umbrella topped tables,

overhead heaters beckoning to evening as well as daytime alfresco

dining. The interior is adorned with black and white photos of movie

stars, a central bar and corner meeting area augmented with a

plethora of inviting tables. An upper level balcony is a delightful

summertime attraction replete with live evening entertainment but is

available off-season only for special events.

Perusing the dinner bill of fare we discover such delectable

beginnings as a portabello mushroom with chorizo and goat cheese

wrapped in prosciutto posed atop chipotle cream sauce; teriyaki

glazed scallops wrapped in bacon; the signature cream of sundried

tomato soup with gorgonzola; and a superlative octave of blackened

chicken spring rolls floating on a pool of spicy honey cilantro

sauce. These range from $8 to $14, the latter for jumbo shrimps with

baby greens in pan Asian dressing with wonton chips. Nine salad

offerings commence with baby greens laced with hearts of palm and

roma tomatoes in a cilantro caper vinaigrette at $6 going to a hefty

combine of medium rare New York strip steak slices over arugula, then

laced with Romano cheese and garlic infused olive oil lemon

vinaigrette balsamic reduction, this at $15.

Topping the list of entrees is the same dinner featured at

Festival of Arts recent Moveable Feast. This delectably succulent

2-inch thick slab of roasted sea bass is presented properly al dente

in a light teriyaki aioli glaze with Asian sauteed asparagus, fried

leeks and steamed rice. Priced from $16 for chicken breast in a

creamed sundried tomato sauce these go to $27 for a rib eye steak

redolent of horseradish butter.

Pork tenderloin is another winner, four meltingly tender slices

enhanced with cilantro ginger pesto in a pan Asian reduction. Pan

seared salmon is topped with cucumber and sesame salsa; rack of lamb

in minted cabernet sauce. Each dish is accompanied with appropriate

sides of potatoes (wasabi mashed, sage roasted, garlic gratin among

choices) or rice, a colorfully assorted melange of fresh vegetables,

a basket of olive muffins and French bread plus a tiny tub or whipped

butter.

A quartet of pastas at $11 to $23, ranges from angel hair with

roma tomatoes and mozzarella tossed with olive oil, garlic and basil,

to fettuccine with veal, wild mushrooms and asparagus. Equally

innovative is the sandwich selection with such as a lamb burger aioli

with gorgonzola, red onion, tomato and roasted red potatoes. A trio

of chicken breast preparations includes honey cilantro with a choice

of provolone or brie; pesto and sundried tomato; and teriyaki Thai

with gorgonzola and cilantro.

The lunch menu, interestingly, is very similar with some items at

a somewhat lesser price range. Notable are a half dozen entrees at

$11 to $14 and an expanded list of sandwiches all of which include a

side of baby greens anointed with the tangy house caper vinaigrette.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].