Fritzankotter’s, a quick bite without the fuss

DINING OUT

Who can resist a quick lunch place like Fritzankotter’s Sandwich

Factory on the corner of Warner Avenue and Springdale Street? It

offers more than 50 sandwich varieties each named after a famous

actor, politician or sports star.

One can’t help speculating about the relation between ingredients

and the personalities -- is Mickey Rooney corny thus a corned beef

sandwich named after him? And what about Sophia Loren with Genoa

salami on a French roll?

This order-at-the-counter eatery, owned by Larry Soong, has the

feel of a real picnic with its redwood tables and benches, plastic

plates and relaxed ambience.

The long single-sheet menus offer selections by ingredients: roast

beef, turkey, ham and so forth, on one side of the menu and

vegetarian delights like Garden of Eden with an Adam and Eve ($4.50)

or a Sodom and Gomorrah with Lucifer sandwiches on rye ($5.25) on the

other.

My choice was Attila with Black Forest ham slices, a thick spread

of avocado, creamy cheese and black olives on wheat-berry bread with

two big juicy dill pickle spears. It was as fresh as a sandwich you’d

fix in your own kitchen. I also had a regular-sized potato salad with

home-style sliced potatoes and celery bits.

In addition to all the sandwiches they have soups and salads

($1.50 to $4.99) and home-style chili and beans topped with melted

cheese($2.25). Hot Chili isn’t at its best in a foam plastic cup and

this was good but not great. Topped with melted cheese, it has pieces

of fresh tomato and onion, but the meat lacked flavor.

Soong says the most popular sandwich choices are the Rolls Royce

with hickory smoked pastrami ($5.25) and the Paul Newman with turkey

($5.25).

There is also the Jack Kelly, named for the former Huntington

Beach mayor and actor who would come in and request “The biggest with

everything.”

Desserts include carrot cake or soft chocolate brownies, to die

for ($1.25).

Fritzankotter’s offers fast service, no fuss, with a touch of

humor.

Fritzankotter’s has been at the same southwest corner location

since 1974 and has been operated by Soong since 1995.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

[email protected]