The magic of Provence

Vicki Zimmerman

There is something magical about a trip to the land of Van Gogh and

Cezanne in the south of France in late spring.

Then again, there’s something magical about participating in a

trip that is planned by one seasoned traveler for 12 friends and

acquaintances that includes two personal bilingual guides who live in

the area and joyfully drive us to the special little towns and

favorite restaurants they’ve come to enjoy by living in the region.

Picture-perfect open-air markets filled with beautiful fabrics and

unique finds, cooking school in a French chef’s home, garden visits,

and then wine tasting and lunch -- what a pleasurable (and luxurious)

week it was for our small group to discover the magic of Provence in

a leisurely, unhurried fashion at the end of May.

Having someone in our group arrange for our private tour and

extracurricular activities gave us the freedom to simply pack and

study up on the area.

Additionally, when one’s vacation time is limited, being driven in

a private vehicle and lunching and dining in restaurants held in high

regard by the locals makes experiencing foreign travel in this

fashion so much nicer. After seeing a country this way, it is going

to be hard to travel any other way.

Could it get any better than this? Mais oui (But, of course). It

was simply that after these lovely daytrips, we would unwind in our

own beautiful garden at Le Moulin des Vignes Vieilles, our “home away

from home,” nestling in at our bed and breakfast inn that was at once

restful and regal.

Our preparation for Provence started early in the year. After two

spring planning meetings -- at which we discussed packing and travel

tips over a fitting meal that began with a champagne aperitif (meant

to stimulate the appetite before a meal), quiche, ratatouille, salad

and meringue pastries -- our plan was to rendezvous for this one-week

trip at the Avignon TGV train station (some of us enjoyed a few days

in Paris earlier in the week).

In Avignon, we were met by Jim Sanders and Dominique Parisot, the

two innkeepers of Le Moulin, a restored, stately 18th-century manor

house and lovely bed and breakfast inn, in Eyguieres, France.

This would be our home from Saturday to Saturday, and they would

be our charming English-speaking tour guides, along with their

equally charming golden retriever, Bud, who endeared himself to each

one of us, including this cat lover. In fact, Jim had originally

lived in the northwestern United States.

On arrival at Le Moulin, we went from room to room viewing each of

the seven designer-touched rooms. Beautiful waterfall showers, large

windows with lovely breezes and down comforters welcomed us.

By coincidence, the French magazine Maison Decor (similar to

“Architectural Digest”) had published a beautiful article on Le

Moulin with extraordinary photographs while we were in residence

there. We each bought the magazine to take home to share with our

loved ones and friends.

That first evening, we strolled out onto the patio and gazed

across the pond and terraced garden. In the distance, we could hear

the sound of running water from the canal that bordered the estate.

We learned that canals ran through the entire town.

Champagne was served along with tapenade, a tasty olive spread,

that we enjoyed on breadsticks and crackers. Very quickly now, we

were immersing ourselves into the French culture.

While Dominique was a day away leading a bike tour with another

group, Jim prepared a wonderful meal that we enjoyed on the patio

under these 250-year-old giant shade trees known as plane trees.

As each morning arrived, we’d stroll outside to a table set

beautifully with pottery in the colors of Provence -- the same

purples, greens and yellows that we’d seen on the shutters of these

stunning country homes. Fresh croissants, French press coffee, a

variety of breads, fresh yogurt and fruit filled the table.

Then we’d hop into two vans and be on our way for our daily

excursions. Jim and Dominique would drive us -- six to a van -- so

that we could enjoy the scenery, libations and photo opportunities.

Highlights from our weeklong itinerary include the Sunday market

at Isle-sur-la Sorgue, the antique capital of France (perhaps even

Europe) with more than 300 dealers. The Provencal market fills the

center of town until midday, and the antique flea market runs all

afternoon.

Driving through the Luberon, site of author Peter Mayle’s “A Year

in Provence,” was another visual treat. Jim and Dominique capped off

this morning drive with a visit to Chateau Val Joanis, where we

walked through the lovely gardens, learned about the winemaking

process and enjoyed lunch in their garden.

One very special touch was seeing the American flag flying

alongside the French flag over the Chateau gardens. We learned that

the chateau owners fly the flag of visiting groups, and each of us

was truly touched by this.

Another market in Vaison-la-Romaine, one of the largest and most

varied areas, was delightful in two ways. There was a choice of

shopping the main part of town with its narrow streets and plazas or

climbing the picturesque, but steep cobblestone walkway to the upper

town to explore the tiny medieval streets and the chateau at the top

of the hill. Both parts of the town are joined by a single-arched

Roman bridge over a river.

Meeting the warm and friendly people of southern France will long

be remembered.

A cooking lesson one evening with Ghyslaine Martin-Castelliano and

her friendly host of a husband, Jacque, in the lovely town of

Salon-de-Provence exceeded all expectation. Seeing this lovely couple

in their 19th-century home with its 21st-century kitchen was

extraordinarily rewarding.

We were served a multilayered omelet cake -- “gateau” in French --

using market-fresh vegetables; a pistou soup with a multitude of

summer vegetables, beans and herbs; and pears steamed to perfection

in red wine.

We learned about olive oils at Ghyslaine’s kitchen counter in an

informal olive oil tasting session that was a new taste sensation for

some in the group. This gave each of us an appreciation for the pure

-- and can we say “fresh” again -- ingredients that go into fine

French cooking. We left with good memories and a very healthy night

of eating.

Ghyslaine is at work on her soon-to-be-published cookbook and will

leave in late summer for Chicago to conduct a cooking class in the

windy city.

A stop in the town of St. Remy-de Provence and a visit to the

asylum where Van Gogh spent a prolific last year (1889 to 1890) were

spectacular. Looking at the same vistas seen by Van Gogh, as well as

the village of Glanum, a Roman archeological site and, later, Les

Baux de Provence with its medieval ruins, gave us all a deeper

appreciation of the history around us.

We enjoyed our farewell breakfast at Le Moulin and threw a final

stick to Bud, the dog before leaving for the Avignon train station.

Saying “Au Revoir,” we each departed with a longing to return and

a subtle awareness that another trip to Provence would be in our

future. New and seasoned travelers know there is so much more to

explore in any locale: the delicious regional foods, beautiful

scenery and breathtaking historical sites.

Besides, we’ve got a few more reasons to travel. Jim and Dominique

enticed us when we learned they also offer walking and biking tours

in Italy, France, Ireland and other locations. Some in our group are

already planning to join Dominique in the spring to walk in Italy (Le

Moulin Web site: www.lemoulin- inn-provence.com).

I’ll keep dreaming of Provence as I take in the fragrance of the

dried lavender I bought at the market in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, until

I’m ready to go again.

* VICKI ZIMMERMAN is a Newport Beach resident.

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