Sea Siam gives Thai a family feel

DINING OUT

Sea Siam, in Southgate Plaza at Bolsa Chica Street and Edinger

Avenue, is redolent with the spicy aroma of Thai cuisine and has an

ambience as friendly as a family kitchen. It fills with hungry

patrons and their Thai friends before noon on weekdays.

Owner and chef Eddie Nanongkhai has created a menu of 89 choices

and sauces that range from fiery-hot to curry to ones dampened down

for timid diners like me. I selected Chicken Pad Ped ($4.95) which

begins with chicken broth filled with carrot slices, droopy straw

mushrooms, baby corn, bamboo shoots and good sized white chicken

meat. Eddie says the soup varies each day as so many customers are

daily regulars. On other days I’ve had the hot and sour flavored with

lemon grass and the wonton, a milder soup with two fat pasta pockets

filled with minced meat.

My lunch plate this day held a flaky cabbage-filled egg roll, a

shredded cabbage and carrot slaw with peanut flavored dressing and a

big scoop of steamed white rice great mixed with the small hot

casserole that held chicken pieces with fiery red chile sauce.

Balance of the four essences is the key to authentic Thai food --

hot, sour, salty and sweet -- and this entree had them all. The

flavors are strong but used with a true chef’s discretion.

My friend chose Shrimp and Broccoli ($5.95) stir fried in an

oyster sauce. The four naked, fat shrimp absorbed the flavor of the

sauce giving the whole dish just the right hint of spice but was

really picked up by the bright green broccoli florets.

Though there are no desserts at Sea Siam, we found the iced Thai

tea and coffee ($1) made with thick sweetened mild and served in a

tall soda glass to be an excellent finish to lunch.

Eddie, who bought Sea Siam 12-years-ago, is a hands-on owner who

like any good restaurateur is everywhere -- seating customers,

serving hot platters and greeting friends. It’s easy to see why the

place is crowded with business men discussing plans and friends

catching up on the latest news like the table of ten in a corner

booth.

A treasure like Sea Siam is a lasting pleasure.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

[email protected]