Natraj Cuisine features tantalizing tastes

DINING OUT

The recipient of numerous media accolades since its Laguna Beach

debut in 1992, Natraj continues as the only local restaurant

featuring the tantalizing cuisine of India. Principal Kuljit Singh,

who began as general manager, purchased the attractive little venue

within two years. So dedicated an owner is he, it is not unusual to

catch him running the dining room personally with his charming wife

Rupi, wafting the delectable aromas of tandoori specialties as they

dish up sizzling servings of lamb, chicken, seafood and vegetable

entrees.

Upon seating, delicate, crisp pappadum wafers will be hurried to

your table along with a saucer of creamy homemade yogurt flecked with

vegetable bits as well as a trio of condiments. To temper the fiery

condiment blend of cilantro, lemon, green onion, mint and chilies and

the mildly hot combination of chopped cauliflower and carrots,

there’s a tasty crimson fruit sauce redolent of berries. The

extensive menu commences with half a dozen appetizers at $2.95 to

$6.95. A fairly good representation of this category is the assorted

platter of chicken tikka, samosas, seekh kabob and pakoras served

with mint sauce. Of the steaming soup quartet in the $3 to $4 range,

the mildly spiced broth of mulligatawny, lentils strewn with rice and

chicken, is especially outstanding. If salad is your preference,

choose from the house combine of lettuce, tomato and cucumber or

mixed greens with shredded tandoori chicken, $2.95 and $3.95

respectively.

Entrees are a la carte, an amazing 15 vegetarian offerings topping

the list of a dozen each lamb and poultry dishes and an octave of

seafood selections. Each is served with basmati rice. That delectably

fine-grained saffron-infused rice, in fact, rates a separate entree

category, biryani and pillau styles laced with such as shrimp,

chicken, lamb, peas, or vegetables with a crunch of slivered almonds

and sweetness of golden raisins.

Among provocative vegetarian tastes are stir-fried okra seasoned

with cumin, ginger and garlic; eggplant and potatoes with blended

spices; and creamed spinach cooked with cheese cubes. Coconut curry

is a popular embellishment to lamb, chicken and shrimp as are

potatoes and spices called vindaloo, the latter also augmenting a

swordfish choice. For a multi-faceted taste of chicken, lamb and

minced meats spiced with ginger and herbs, the mixed tandoori platter

is a must. It is one of eight specialties of the house which further

includes rack of lamb, jumbo shrimps tandoori and marinated fish

kabobs served with tomatoes.

Of course, no Indian repast is complete without one of the

fragrant breads from the tandoori brick oven, pliant, chewy rounds,

leavened or not, whole wheat or plain. Some are seasoned with garlic,

onions, spiced ground meat or potatoes and peas. These are tabbed

from $1.95 to $3.50. Most entrees are $9 to $12, starting at $7.95

and going to $20.95 for lobster bhuna cooked with mildly spiced

onions, broccoli, celery, ginger and garlic.

Check out the Natraj lunch scene for one of the best bargains in

or out of town. This is an all-you-can-devour buffet featuring more

than twenty items, appetizers to dessert. It is a nominal $6.50,

Monday through Saturday. Then again on Sunday a similar experience

complemented with champagne, wine or beer offers a terrific way to

launch your week for all of $9.95.

* GLORI FICKLING is a long-time Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].