Dining choices at the Montage Resort

DINING OUT

Boasting a trio of diversified restaurants plus the lovely Lobby

Lounge for afternoon tea, light fare and cocktails, the magnificent

new Montage Resort and Spa has brought to Laguna Beach some

delightfully new dimensions in dining.

Launched with an inviting VIP reception on Feb. 21, the elegant

event proved a superb showcase for the resort’s many and varied

gustatory indulgences. An unexpectedly happy surprise was the

presence of executive chef Jonathan Pfluegar whom local foodies have

missed since the sudden termination late last year of his innovative

Vertical Wine Bar Restaurant on Forest Avenue. Little did we realize

it was this golden opportunity which prompted the closing.

Commencing with blaring trumpets that heralded arriving cars, the

fascinating fanfare included a spectacular fireworks display,

rhythmic bands and entertainment on every level. But it was the

delectable display of food, fabulously fascinating food, which

dazzled everyone throughout every area of this inviting resort, from

the Mosaic Bar and Grille poolside to the formal Studio perched

handsomely seaside. Waiters offering cocktails, champagne and

premiere vodka shots greeted guests as they entered. And there was

Beluga caviar with blinis and all the trimmings along with a plethora

of extraordinary epicurean appetizers and desserts .

Possibly the most enticing innovation of the evening, however, was

the invitation to walk through the immaculate sprawling kitchen where

guests sampled such delicacies as jumbo Alaskan prawns, ahi and

salmon tartars, Dungeness, blue and Alaskan king crabs plus

spit-roasted lamb loin. Past this, in the rear employees cafeteria,

awaited Pflueger’s long-time assistant, Star Cornwell, dishing up

mini foie gras burgers sided with truffle-dusted souffle. Savvy

dining enthusiasts may recall these little filet mignon burger gems

when they were recently touted on TV as 1/2 pound nouvelle taste

sensations tagged at $50. Impressive, too, were attendants in the

ballroom at the ready with martini stems heaped with risotto, polenta

or whipped potatoes, then lavished with a grand array of tasty

toppings. At poolside we were offered grilled lobster tail, ahi loin

and shrimp as well as scallop and shrimp spring rolls, curried beef

satay with peanut sauce and mini lobster club sandwiches.

The resort should be commended on the astute appointment of such

prestigious directors as executive chef James Boyce who reigns

supreme in the signature Studio restaurant. The Mediterranean style

cuisine he features reflects his award-winning approach and the

Escoffier fundamentals defining his inimitable style. With an awesome

290 degree panoramic ocean view, the Studio features early California

art, a central communal table for bar style repasts and an impressive

2,000-plus vintages displayed in custom built wine vaults which flank

the capacious bar.

Another Montage luminary is chef de cuisine Gregory Short who

arrived by way of Napa Valley’s legendary French Laundry to preside

at the hotel’s lovely fourth floor Loft. Here awaits casual gourmet

dining coupled with alfresco and indoor seating whether for

breakfast, lunch or dinner. The Loft is open every day from 6 a.m.

until 10 p.m.

It was extremely heartwarming to observe that this elegantly

tasteful attraction, in its final emergence, has garnered all-around

community accolades, even from many who were formerly against the

once controversial project, We must be proud to count the Montage

Resort and Spa as another enhancement to Laguna Beach, always the

California Riviera’s brightest star.

* GLORI FICKLING is a long-time Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].