Some southern Cajun cooking

DINING OUT

There is no better time to become familiar with the Cajun food of New

Orleans than Shrove Tuesday, a day of parades, carnivals in the

Louisiana city celebrating 40 days before Easter and the beginning of

the lean cuisine of Lent.

With a reputation for spiciness, Cajun food may be overlooked but

chef Cidron of New Orleans Cafe in Huntington Beach, presents food

that doesn’t shout -- its flavors are a muted mix that linger on the

tongue.

Chicken Orleans (lunch $6.95, dinner $11.95), broiled, de-boned

chicken, which has been rubbed in a Cajun spice mix before broiling,

is topped with a generous serving of sliced mushrooms. It’s thick and

tender and very good with a mound of steamed rice and mix of colorful

fresh vegetables -- the inevitable broccoli, but lots of al dente

carrots. It’s an attractive plate set off by a tall Italian ceramic

mug that holds at least two cups of excellent coffee.

One of New Orleans’ best-known contributions to regional American

cuisine is red beans and rice ($9.95), served here on an overflowing

platter. Red kidney beans with slices of chicken sausage, bacon,

onion and cayenne pepper are slowly simmered until tender and served

with a big blob of steamed white rice on top. It’s mildly spicy, a

real comfort dish. Nothing says New Orleans like red beans. Famous

trumpeter Louis Armstrong loved this dish so much, he signed his

letters, “Red beans and ricely yours.”

Another selection, beef kebobs ($6.95), alternates firm and savory

beef cubes on a skewer with onion and bell pepper slices, which is

also served with rice and a vegetable medley. A good fresh salad

accompanies each entree with fresh iceberg lettuce doused with a

vinaigrette dressing with feta cheese, garlic and herbs.

Don’t finish without having warm bread pudding ($3.50) a big

two-inch square of sweetened bread combined with mil, sugar, eggs,

nuts and raisins in a savory caramel sauce.

Energetic and gracious manager/server Aaron DeKayer, a refugee

from Chicago weather, does his best to enliven New Orleans Cafe.

There were red heart balloons tied to the dining room chairs on

Valentine’s, but the room has a defeated feel about it. Perhaps more

colorful plants would help. The good food and efforts of Aaron and

chef Cidron need some appreciation.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

[email protected].