Delving into the world of organic

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

For years, I’ve been hearing about the virtues of organic food --

coming from both middle-aged health food junkies and young urban

foodies. Their argument that organic foods are chemical-free and

taste better always made sense, but I resisted taking the plunge.

Unless they were tending their own gardens, how could they be sure

they were eating tomatoes fertilized with compost instead of Miracle

Gro?

Does everyone even understand what “organic” actually means? A

quick definition is any food produced without chemical fertilizers,

toxic pesticides or weed killers. Plants are fed with organic

materials added to the soil. Organic meats, poultry, eggs and dairy

products come from animals that have been fed no antibiotics or

growth hormones.

It all sounds good, but how can I be sure about those tomatoes?

To remedy the rather confusing situation, The U.S. Department of

Agriculture stepped in last year to set national and international

standards for use of the designation “organic.” Government-approved

certifiers now inspect farms where food is grown to make sure

standards are being met and provide a label to assure the consumer.

Any food producer that claims their produce or livestock is organic

and fails to meet the require- ments is fined $10,000.

Now, this is beginning to sound better. I’m ready to take the

plunge.

My body is most likely a toxic dump site from a lifetime of

chemical and growth hormone consumption, but the promise of better

tasting food was appealing. I did a little testing of my own.

Starting at the supermarket, organic bananas taste a little

better, but organic broccoli tasted the same as its non-organic

cousin. I suspect the long travel time from field to market means

that fruits and vegetables are still harvested before they are fully

ripened. And, it could all depend on the grower.

My next stop was to South Coast Farms in San Juan Capistrano,

which is a certified grower of organic fruits and vegetables.

Unfortunately, this is not prime season for a wide variety of produce

grown in Orange County, so some of the produce comes from other

growers. The organically grown tomatoes from somewhere else were OK.

But the cauliflower and strawberries that came from their own fields

were outstanding. The most surprising thing was that berries kept so

well in the refrigerator -- they were still firm and juicy after a

few days in plastic containers. So much for the virtues of additives

to preserve freshness.

The strawberries from an organic farm that sells at our local

farmer’s market were also excellent. I learned they came from Irvine

fields, while many of the other items were from Santa Maria. Organic

oranges from someplace up north were not as good as expected,

especially at $1 per orange.

Prices for organic produce are always higher than those grown

under regular methods. Organic methods produce lower yields and a

lower rate of return on the farmer’s investment.

The fruit, especially, tends to develop more blemishes because no

chemical pesticides or disease controls are used. Blemished fruit

doesn’t last as long on the shelf and may have to be discarded

sooner. More waste equals higher prices. Assured by the new USDA

guidelines, I think the price is definitely worth it, especially for

people with auto-immune diseases and devotees to a chemical-free

lifestyle. But is it necessary to limit yourself to only foods that

are grown and processed this way?

Many pesticides are sprayed on and can be removed with careful

washing. But berries and other fruits with porous skins, like pears,

will absorb anything sprayed on them. Even washing won’t get rid of

the bad stuff. Brussel sprouts and cabbage are also risky because of

their tight leaf structure. Would you separate and wash individual

Brussels sprout leaves before cooking?

Organic food advocates are absolutely correct when they cite the

harmful effects of chemicals and toxins in our food. (Some studies of

breast milk have revealed the presence if dangerous levels.) They are

also correct when they tout the nutritional benefits of food raised

in this fashion. Food raised with organic nutrients of the soil will

deliver more nutrients at the table.

But do they all taste better? Some do and some don’t. On the basis

of my very-unscientific survey, I found that organic produce grown on

local farms tastes the best. (With our long growing season, I suspect

it’s possible to find a good variety 12 months out of the year, with

a bit of creative menu planning.)

For now, with the blessings of the USDA, I’ll continue to shop at

local farm stands for organic produce and sample the offerings at the

supermarket. I may be pleasantly surprised.

* LILLIAN REITER is a Laguna Beach resident. A self-described

“shameless foodie,” she is co-authoring a cookbook. She can be

reached at [email protected]; at P.O. Box 248, Laguna Beach, CA 92652;

or by fax at 494-8979.