A meal meant to be shared at Thaifoon

Stephen Santacroce

As I review more and more restaurants, I find that there are

different restaurants for different moods. There are romantic

restaurants, formal restaurants, places to hang out with the guys,

restaurants suited for intimate gatherings and those better suited

for larger groups.

Thaifoon, the new Asian eatery in Fashion Island, fits squarely

into the last category. The idea of Scottsdale-based Desert Island

Restaurants CEO Randy Schoch, Thaifoon is a large, bustling

restaurant with a casual atmosphere and an emphasis on sharing.

It’s difficult not to compare Thaifoon to P.F Chang’s. Both

restaurants feature contemporary Asian cuisine that doesn’t claim

authenticity to any single cuisine but instead emphasizes quality

ingredients and fresh flavors.

Thaifoon is hard to miss. The imposing restaurant is in Fashion

Island across from the Daily Grill and Barnes and Nobles. If its size

and striking black sign weren’t enough, flaming tiki torches draw

curious patrons to see what the latest hot spot is all about.

Inside, the decor is fashionable and warm, subtle earth tones are

punctuated by dozens of candles that add cozy touches. The most

striking feature is a glass wall waterfall that stretches the length

of the exposition kitchen, advertising the restaurant name in

striking black script.

Thaifoon doesn’t take reservations for parties less than 10, and

on busy evenings (which seems to be most, at least for now) patrons

are handed a pager that will vibrate when a table is ready. Pager in

hand, it’s off to the bar to enjoy a few cocktails and maybe some

appetizers.

If you’re feeling adventurous, forget the standard martini or

cosmopolitan. Try one of Thaifoon’s specialty drinks, such as the

Thai Mai, a concoction of banana, coconut and vanilla rum mixed with

fresh pineapple, orange and cranberry juices. For $22, you and a few

friends can enjoy one of these tropical treats served in a large

glass bowl with four straws.

I was disappointed that the bar area wasn’t larger. There are a

few bar tables, but I’d like to see more room to enjoy drinks and

appetizers after a hard day’s shopping.

The menu at Thaifoon is loosely based on Thai cuisine, but

observant diners will note influences from other Asian cuisines. As

with P.F. Chang’s, the spices and preparations have been updated to

appeal to a broader range of palates.

I’m a big fan of authenticity, especially after several trips to

Asia. Thaifoon doesn’t make any claims at being the real thing.

Everyone I’ve dined there with has been impressed with the flavor and

freshness of the food. So have I.

Appetizers are a perfect way to get acquainted with the menu and a

great example of the blending of different cuisines.

One of the simplest starters is the edamame ($4.95), a Japanese

dish of steamed soybeans. The beans are steamed in their pods and

tossed with a handful of rock salt. To eat the pea-like beans, you

split the pod by squeezing the ends together to release the tasty

beans.

The soybeans are fun to pick on while sipping cocktails, and they

have the added benefit of being healthful.

A more traditional Thai dish is the chicken Satay ($6.95), strips

of marinated chicken grilled and served with a mildly sweet peanut

sauce.

Siamese spring rolls ($6.95) are crisp egg rolls filled with a

mixture of sweet crabmeat and savory pork. The rolls are served with

lettuce leaves, fresh mint and a sweet and sour chili sauce. The idea

is to wrap a roll in a lettuce leaf with some of the mint and sauce.

My friend Karen doesn’t like the assembly process, but I think the

cool lettuce is a good foil for the crisp egg rolls.

Another dish that features lettuce wrappers is shrimp explosion

($7.95). Here, small rock shrimp are quickly fried and served with a

citrus-chili sauce and some fresh ginger. As with the spring rolls,

some assembly is required.

The barbecued pork ribs ($7.95) glazed in honey and hoisin sauce

are some of the meatiest and tender ribs I’ve had. The meat was

practically falling off the bone. The vinegary slaw served with them

cuts the richness of the meat perfectly.

The young staff at Thaifoon is friendly and helpful, eager to

explain menu items or offer suggestions.

The dishes are served family style, and it’s obvious that the food

at Thaifoon is meant to be shared. I like going in larger groups so I

can sample many different dishes.

The entrees are arranged in categories by beef and pork, chicken

and duck, seafood, and noodles. Firebird chicken ($8.95) pairs

marinated chicken strips, tossed with garlic and cilantro, and fried

rice. I was impressed with how flavorful this simple-sounding dish

was. All of the ingredients complimented each other while maintaining

distinct flavors.

There were very few dishes I didn’t like at Thaifoon, although

some leaned toward the ordinary, such as the pepper steak ($12.95),

which, despite claiming to be made with filet mignon, was a bit

chewy. The sauce for this dish was a bit too mild, and I had trouble

tasting the cracked pepper that was supposed to coat the meat.

On the other hand, the lemongrass-crusted halibut ($12.95) is

easily the star of the menu. A halibut fillet is seasoned and lightly

breaded, and then fried and served with a sweet chili sauce. The fish

had a light, crunchy crust that surrounded a moist melt-in-your-mouth

filet, and the sauce had just the right touch of sweetness without

being cloying.

It’s difficult to pair wine with most Asian cuisines; the spices

can overpower or conflict with a lot of varietals. The best wines to

accompany spicy Asian fare are sweeter whites, such as Rieslings or

Gewurztraminer.

When I ordered a Gewurztraminer by the glass on a recent visit, my

server informed me they were out of it, but wisely recommended a

local Riesling they were also pouring. By the bottle, Thaifoon offers

an adequate list of mostly California wines.

One thing those with a sweet tooth won’t find at Thaifoon is a

dessert menu. Instead, the restaurant serves up a complimentary small

scoop of green tea or coconut ice cream. If you’re in the mood for

other some sweets, save some time for a stop on the way home.

In addition to being open for lunch and dinner, Thaifoon also

offers their complete menu for take-out. I ordered some food to go,

and when I got home found that I had been given the wrong order. When

I returned to exchange the food for my order, the manager also handed

me several gift certificates for my trouble. A nice touch.

Thaifoon seems to have a winning formula of atmosphere, moderate

pricing and fresh, flavorful food with a wide appeal.

Judging by the initial crowds, it’s safe to say that Thaifoon will

be around for a while. It has attracted shoppers looking for a food

break as well as destination diners eager to enjoy the restaurant’s

unique blend of Asian-influenced cuisine.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other

Thursday. Send him your comments at [email protected].