Zesty atmosphere found at Eva’s

Dining Out

From the magical mood created by dynamic principal Eva Madray to

the sensational tastes and aromas coming from the cooking domain of

chef Miguel Rivera, Eva’s Caribbean Kitchen is a world apart.

Though this is her initial venture into the hospitality scene, it

is clear the tireless Eva has found her niche in life. So happy is

her approach, almost every evening turns into a party of happy people

enjoying the wonderfully warm camaraderie she inspires.

Her interest in acquiring this unusual restaurant happened only a

year ago, after her long tenure as a customer of the original Drew,

who opted out after almost five years in the business. Which answers

the often asked question, why is there a large X across the name of

Drew on the restaurant’s exterior logo?

The delectably exotic cuisine coming from the immaculate open

kitchen also captivates the dedicated clientele, who arrive from all

over.

On the menu, whimsical asides are offered to titillate taste buds

fearless of the potent seasonings that define Caribbean dining. .

Chef Rivera uses garlic, chili and myriad Cajun spices in preparing

the tender, succulent seafood, chicken and meats. The flavorful menu,

he says, is also healthful, because no butter or fat is used in any

of his recipes.

Among an octet of appetizers at $3 to $10, it doesn’t get more

flavorful than Rivera’s version of crab cakes: crunchy, spicy mounds

flecked with corn and presented with pineapple/mango salsa, simply

the best in my long experience.

For a more fiery bite, there’s flame-roasted eggplant redolent of

garlic, chili and onion atop pita bread wedges. Plump al dente prawns

come in a coconut crisping with mango chutney, and again in a black

skillet dredging of potent Cajun spices cooled with a passion fruit

chutney of pineapple, mango and roasted peppers.

The popular jerk-seasoned salmon, pork loin and steak are among

more than a dozen entrees from $12.94 to $19.95.

Our party agreed with the raves galore from nearby tables for

Creole stewed fish, a mouthwatering slab of orange roughy stewed with

of tomatoes and onions in a fiery Creole voodoo sauce; for the

falling-off-the-bone tender chicken with sweet mango chutney; and

again for the delectable blackened catfish, seared in a skillet,

roasted in an oven and served with sauteed spinach, rice and

plantains.

It is a delight to watch the glee in Eva’s sparkling eyes as she

shakes up a variety of passion fruit libations potent with rum,

vodka, tequila or gin from the comprehensive kitchen bar, flitting

from table to table as she pours to her heart’s delight.

Of the half-dozen other decadent desserts at $3.50 to $7, you will

be tempted to savor the 100-year old recipe for tangy key lime pie

surrounded with whipped cream rosettes, rich chocolate-layered bread

pudding and the silky guava-infused cheesecake.

Top this with Eva’s cappuccino laced with Bailey’s Irish cream,

and you’ll know why this enchanting little Caribbean paradise

consistently inspires return engagements.

* GLORI FICKLING is a Laguna Beach resident who has been writing

restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be contacted at

494-4710 or e-mail [email protected].