Zinc Cafe fills a breakfast niche

Stephen Santacroce

When C’est Si Bon closed its Corona del Mar location several years

ago, a void was created for casual diners looking for a unique stop

for breakfast or lunch. The quirky cafe left diners to take breakfast

at chains such as Coco’s and Ruby’s, or to grab a muffin or croissant

at the local Starbucks.

Many diners, myself included, found solace in Laguna Beach at Cafe

Zinc, the charming cafe and market where patrons enjoyed fresh baked

goods, savory egg dishes and unique sandwiches in a relaxing outdoor

setting.

So, naturally, I was thrilled to learn earlier this year that

another Zinc Cafe would be opening in Corona Del Mar, just a few

doors down from the Quiet Woman. Finally, I hoped, there’d be a

choice fitting the quaint upscale village style of the area.

John Saracen, the owner of the Zinc cafes (besides Laguna and

Corona del Mar, there’s one in Solana Beach), got the idea for the

restaurant while studying architecture at Berkeley in the early

1980s. He enjoyed the variety of small street-side cafes that

populated the college town and offered small menus of unique dishes

prepared with fresh ingredients, served in relaxing settings that

fostered lingering and conversation.

John graduated with a degree in landscape architecture, a field he

soon found he enjoyed more as a hobby than a career, and came back to

Laguna. In 1988, he opened the original Cafe Zinc, inspired by his

favorite Berkeley hangout, Cafe Fanny, which was run by renowned chef

Alice Waters, of Chez Panisse fame.

His new store in Corona del Mar is virtually in the dead center of

town, on East Coast Highway between Larkspur and Marguerite. It

occupies a location that had been home to an upscale garden shop and

a high-end auto dealer, among other businesses.

The restaurant exhibits a rustic, understated charm. High

wood-beam ceilings and large picture windows frame the two main areas

of the star. Like its Laguna counterpart, Zinc Cafe is divided

somewhat in two. The right half of the building is occupied by a

market offering candles, soaps and other decorative items. The market

also houses a bar, serving coffee drinks and bakery items, as well as

deli cases filled with prepared salads, sandwiches and other stuff.

The left side of the building features the main dining area, which is

populated by brushed steel and wood tables resting on finished

concrete floors. A large eucalyptus commands attention in the center

of the room, and an outdoor patio bleeds into the parking lot for

enjoyable fresh air dining.

Diners at Zinc order at a counter that fronts the kitchen. Servers

provide prepared baked goods and coffee drinks when you order; other

dishes are brought to your table. So far, Zinc is a popular choice,

and on weekends, be prepared to have to stalk a table if you arrive

after about 9 a.m.

I especially enjoy breakfast at Zinc, ordering from one of three

sections featuring egg dishes, cereals and fruit and baked goods. My

favorite dish is probably one of the simplest: poached eggs. One or

two fresh eggs ($4.50 for one, $4.95 for two) are served atop crisp

slices of buttered toast (the breads are all supplied by La Brea

Bakery or C’est Si Bon). The eggs are poached just right, not too

runny, but not with solid yolks, either, and are sprinkled with fresh

parsley and a twist of fresh ground pepper.

For heartier appetites, there’s a spicy huevos rancheros ($6.95)

served on a crisped tortilla with black beans and a papaya-mango

salsa or a scrambled egg plate ($6.50) with leeks, cream and parsley.

I also like the frittata ($3.95), a dense egg pie studded with

potatoes and artichoke hearts and topped with a refreshing cucumber

salsa.

Creamy oatmeal is also offered, served with both a dried cherry

and nut topping ($4.75) or with seasonal fruit ($5.50). I like the

former; the crunch of the nuts and tart cherries are a nice contrast

to the mild oatmeal.

A more decadent choice is the crispy waffle ($4.95), served with

orange flavored butter and pure maple syrup.

Transitioning from breakfast to lunch, Zinc offers a variety of

European-style sandwiches, prepared salads, daily soup specials and a

selection of small pizzas. John Saracen is a vegetarian, and there

are no meat dishes on the menu, but all but the most devout

carnivores should find something to please their palates.

For a touch of the French countryside, try the mixed vegetable

sandwich (all sandwiches are $6.75). A round rustic loaf is filled

with thinly sliced fennel, radish and green pepper. The crunchy

vegetables are topped with arugula and sliced hard-boiled egg and

dressed with olive tapenade and aioli (French mayonnaise).

Another good sandwich features thin slices of creamy brie on a

crusty baguette topped with arugula and a spread of country mustard,

with a touch of horseradish. The bitter greens balance the rich

cheese, and both are complimented by the zesty spread.

The mini pizzas ($6.95 each) feature some interesting toppings,

such as pesto with roasted peppers and goat cheese. I’m not a fan of

this one. The tart goat cheese spoils the delicate flavor of the

pesto. I like the pizza topped with thin slices of fried eggplant and

marinara sauce.

Food service from the kitchen stops at 4 p.m., but the market is

open until 6 p.m., offering vegetable lasagna, pre-made sandwiches

and a variety of salads for take-out. Salads are all priced at $8.95

per pound, and include a classic caprice salad of tomato, small

marble-sized balls of fresh mozzarella, with basil olive oil

dressing. Or try the roasted root vegetables in a sweet balsamic

vinegar glaze.

For desserts, Zinc Cafe features a daily selection of freshly

baked cakes and tarts, as well as an assortment of cookies and a

creamy rice pudding.

Judging by the success of Zinc Cafe, I’d say that local residents

have been eager for a cafe offering a place to enjoy fresh and unique

food in a setting perfectly suited for a relaxing morning reading the

paper while sipping a hot latte. I know I’ll be a regular, and I plan

to get there early to snag my favorite table.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other

Thursday. Send him your comments at [email protected].