Clam chowder still aces at Yankee Tavern

Kathy Mader

If you haven’t heard of or eaten at the Yankee Tavern, then you

probably just got here. This restaurant is firmly ingrained in our

local culture and is a great choice for treating your out-of-town

guests.

East Coasters, especially Southerners, might not think Yankee

Tavern and a nautical theme go together, but my guess is that we West

Coasters are good at the inference of “clipper” between Yankee and

Tavern and aren’t surprised one bit by the nautical decor.

And nautical decor it is, with photographs and paintings

everywhere, including boats of all shapes and sizes right outside the

window, though nary a clipper in sight.

Yankee Tavern is a big restaurant, with slow-spinning ceiling fans

making you think of summer. There are booths rimming the room,

windows on all sides and tables big and small in the center. They can

definitely accommodate any size party.

There have been some menu changes since I last ate here. Bring

back the bisque, I say, which probably dates my last visit, but

doesn’t really embarrass me. The Tavern, as I like to call it, used

to have a wonderful lobster bisque laced with sherry.

They still have as good a New England clam chowder as any New

England town, and that says a lot. Believe it or not, here in this

coastal town, really good clam chowder is hard to come by. This

chowder, not too thick but good and rich ($3.75/4.95), made my Top 10

soup list a couple of years ago.

A curious rendition of bouillabaisse ($21.95) is also on the menu.

Generous with shellfish, but with a somewhat soggy penne. It also has

a broth that seems based in beef, not tomato, and is topped with

crispy fried onions. What? Although salty, it is pretty tasty -- but

a distant cousin once removed from the bouillabaisse you might be

expecting.

The fish entrees are pretty good. The halibut ($22.95) was

excellent, baked in white wine, capers and herb butter, but the

grilled ahi ($21.95) was just OK.

Stick to the comfort food, that which made America great (and a

leader in cardiac arrest) -- meatloaf, liver, pot pies and pork

chops. That’s the stuff of legend!

The “traditional American dishes” section of the menu is where it

is at. I have even had the grilled calf’s liver ($14.95) with bacon

and onions and liked it! Roasted turkey breast with pecan dressing

and giblet gravy and turkey meatloaf with a mushroom gravy round out

this section and each entree in this category is what makes a second

trip to the Tavern worthwhile.

And I love it when a menu considers buttered noodles as not only a

viable side dish but a “family-style favorite.” The creamed corn

isn’t bad either.

Among our favorites: The habit forming Yankee pot roast “dip”

sandwich. This is sliced pot roast served on a soft and chewy

sourdough baguette with gravy and/or horseradish -- either creamy or

straight up for the foolhardy. Tip, get both and use the gravy for

the fries. East Coasters will understand and appreciate this. This

“dip” is a great Sunday afternoon sandwich, but I would be happy to

eat it any other day as well. Brian even loved the peanut coleslaw

served with it.

The crab cakes ($11.95 appetizer, $18.95 entree) also came in high

on our list for the evening. It’s crispy, fried and served over an

unabashedly delicious mustard caper sauce.

For dessert, we found the creme brulee fairly weak, served

lukewarm in spots with not-so-fresh berries. Go for the profiteroles,

small ice-cream-filled pastries drizzled in chocolate sauce. This,

like the other simple foods here, is a sure thing.

Side note: The Yankee Tavern also serves a Saturday and Sunday

brunch off the menu and participates in the Door 2 Door delivery

service.

* KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.