The Grill at Pelican Hill shoots above par

Stephen Santacroce

When I’m not writing or working at my real estate job, I like to

squeeze in a round of golf every now and then. Despite the

frustration the sport can incite, golf courses are usually situated

in grand settings and provide for a relaxing afternoon with friends.

I wouldn’t go so far as to call myself a golfer (nor would anyone

who’s played with me), but I enjoy the game.

Eighteen holes can work up an appetite, especially when most of

your time is spent looking for lost balls. Alas, the food at many

courses consists of an overpriced hot dog and bag of chips wolfed

down rounding the turn between holes nine and 10.

So of course I was surprised and somewhat skeptical when several

friends suggested I review The Grill at the Pelican Hill golf course.

I was aware that the restaurant was there, but never considered it

for a critical review. My skepticism quickly faded when I learned

that The Grill was run by the Four Seasons Hotel in Newport Beach.

The hotel’s Pavilions restaurant was recently named No. 1 in Orange

County by the Zagat guide.

Pelican Hill is in Newport Coast, the exclusive coastal

development recently annexed by Newport Beach. The golf course is

treasured for its spectacular ocean and canyon views, and commands a

hefty fee for 18 holes of golf.

The Grill is attached to the main clubhouse, perched above the

18th green. A dark oak bar spans the rear of the main dining room,

providing a clubby, masculine hangout where duffers can discuss the

one that almost went in. The main room is elegantly decorated with

club green carpets, cool stucco walls and an assortment of floral

arrangements. High ceilings are punctuated by stone-pillared archways

that add a touch of drama to the room.

The stylish interior is soon forgotten, however, upstaged by the

superb view beyond the glass-enclosed wall that fronts the main room.

Past the cool green fairways is a truly stunning vista of Newport

Coast and the Pacific Ocean, accented by Catalina Island when the

weather is clear enough. The views make lunch a popular dining time,

and if you’re going for dinner, try to arrive before sundown. The

Grill is probably one of the few restaurants where the early seatings

are more popular than the late ones.

I visited the restaurant with my friends Ross, Pete and Steve. We

started with a cocktail at the bar, or at least tried to. The

bartenders seemed a bit overwhelmed by the crowd, and it took us

awhile to get our orders in. We finally ended up being seated and

placing our cocktail orders again with our waitress.

The menu, under the skillful hands of chef Mike Dugan, stresses

the simplicity one would expect at a grill, with a selection of

roasted or grilled meats and fishes, a handful of pasta dishes, and a

page of salads and appetizers.

I started off with the sauteed soft-shell crabs ($12.75), which

consisted of a single crab that was fried crisp, quartered and

arranged around a handful of mache lettuce. The rich crab was dressed

with a simple lemon butter, and a few dabs of whole-grain mustard

added an earthy zing. Another winner was the seared crab cake ($13),

served over soy-marinated vegetables. There was a lot of sweet

crabmeat in the thick patty, and the ginger and orange sauce pooled

around the dish provided a nice citrus balance.

Salads include a baby spinach salad ($9.75) tossed with a warm red

wine vinaigrette. Warm dressings seem to tame the distinct grassy

nature of spinach. Roasted shitake mushrooms completed the salad with

their earthy flavor.

Main course selections include a dozen or so meat and fish dishes,

along with a half-dozen pasta entrees. I was disappointed on our

visit that the kitchen was out of the crispy duck and the lobster,

but pleased that our waitress told us soon after we were seated.

There’s nothing worse than getting worked up over a dish only to be

told that it’s sold out when you’re about to order.

Forgoing the duck, which would have been my first choice, I

selected instead the veal chop ($27), a choice that did not let me

down. The thick loin chop was well-seared, keeping the interior flesh

moist and meaty. A robust mushroom reduction played well off the

delicate meat, all of which was accompanied by sauteed celery root

and thin slices of fingerling potatoes.

Pete selected a pasta dish, the papparadelle with seared salmon

($14.75). This dish falls in the pasta section in name only as the

crisp salmon consisted of an entree-sized portion perched atop wide

egg noodles tossed with bitter arugula, sun-dried tomatoes, goat

cheese and a light balsamic dressing. The dressing was unobtrusive,

letting the salmon star in the dish. I only wish the chef hadn’t

overcooked the noodles: They were a bit on the mushy side.

I’m a big fan of the recent trend to simplify dishes, focusing

instead on preparation and quality ingredients, and the halibut ($23)

and roasted chicken ($17) ordered by my friends Steve and Ross both

drove this point home.

The halibut was first pan-seared to crisp the outside and then

finished in a hot oven. The freshness of the fish was obvious after

one bite, and it was served with a simple mixed green and heirloom

tomato salad drizzled with a basil vinaigrette. The dish sounds

simple enough, but the greens and tomatoes were bursting with

fresh-grown flavor, and a more complex sauce simply would have

overpowered the delicate fish.

Simpler still was Ross’ chicken, a half-bird roasted and served

over a bed of garlic mashed potatoes. The skin was perfectly crisped,

while the meat underneath remained moist; pan juices were all that

were needed to finish the plate.

To accompany the meal, The Grill offers a small but well-chosen

selection of wines dominated by late vintage California labels, as

well as a small contingent from France, Italy and Australia. I

ordered an Arrowood Cabernet and was surprised when the maitre ‘d

suggested the manager’s featured wine, a Frie Brothers Pinot Noir. It

wasn’t the switch from cab to pinot that surprised me, but rather

that the pinot was about half the price of the Arrowood. It was the

first time I can remember being down-sold on a bottle of wine, and it

was an excellent choice.

Whether you’re a PGA professional, a weekend duffer, or you can’t

tell the difference between a putter and a driver, The Grill at

Pelican Hill should be a must-visit on any dining list. The clubby

atmosphere, spectacular views and excellent menu make for a winning

combination perfect for a relaxing evening dinner, afternoon lunch,

or even brunch on the weekends. And if you’ve got relatives in town,

there’s no better place to show off the beauty of Orange County.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other

Thursday. Send him your comments at [email protected].