Authentic Japanese cuisine, feel and style at Daimon

DINING OUT

When Kiko Imamura and his wife Tomo visited Atlanta from their

native Fukuoka, Japan 20 years ago, they felt the Japanese

restaurants in the United States were too formal and didn’t reflect

the happy, friendly small cafes they loved in Japan.

And so while vacationing in the United States the idea for Daimon

was born -- a place with a lively sushi bar and round-the-hot-grill

tile roof on Pacific Coast Highway. Daimon means “family crest.” It

was named for all the help they received from family and friends in

establishing a fun place to socialize and dine.

As we opened the door to a blast of hot music and friendly

greetings from the sushi bar, we continued on past a huge mural of a

ferocious gorilla painted by a friend on the owner’s son. Then on to

one of the three U-shaped teppan grills to find a seat and give our

order to Summer Mujaezno -- a choice of two from a Tuesday night

special of New York steak, chicken breast, scallops or calamari

($13.95, 5 to 7 p.m. daily).

As the grill is heated and ventilator above started, Summer brings

a hot cup of miso soup and a fresh mixed salad with a great spicy,

garlic thousand island-type dressing.

Enter Gonsolo Gonzales, the teppan chef who has been with Daimon

for nearly 10 years. He has brought our entree orders that also

include fresh zucchini, broccoli, carrots, onions, a pile of noodles

and bowls of steamed rice. In two tiny containers he mixes a thin

teriyaki dip for the steak and a creamy mustardy one for chicken and

fish.

With a spatula and fork he begins to chop the vegetables in cubes,

sprinkle them with soy and seasonings and the noodles with Parmesan

cheese. He builds a tower of onion slices into which he pours oils

and ignites them creating a flame-spewing volcano for his

appreciative audience.

Teppan eating is fun -- up close and personal -- the steak is

firm, the chicken pieces tender and the scallops slightly chewy,

sweet and moist. The shelled shrimp turn pink as they cook and Chef

Gonsolo squeezes lemon over the seafood and gently nudges the

vegetables until done as requested. Then he scoops it all up, to pile

on our waiting plates.

Daimon exudes energy, the loud music leaves scant hope for

conversation but the sense of showmanship and excellent food are the

attraction. The drummer from Short Bus (formerly Sublime) comes by in

his off time, and when Dennis Rodman wants sushi, you may find him at

Daimon. Owners Kiko and Tomo Imamura have achieved their goal of

Japanese food presented in a lively bistro style for all to share.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail

[email protected].