Dining Out
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Mary Furr
The Red Pearl Kitchen, opened recently on Walnut Avenue in Downtown
Huntington Beach, seems a contradiction in terms. It’s as unusual in
concept as a rare “red pearl,” and at the same time as warm and friendly
as a “kitchen.” Owned by Tim and Liza Goodell, it is their first venture
into the changing perception of Huntington Beach as an exciting evening
destination.
A square bar in the center with tall burgundy-colored ladder-back
chairs attracts many, but it is the Pan-Asian cuisine that gets our
attention as server Alison seats us at nearby black wooden tables. Red
Pearl has a “chatty” kind of a la carte chicken, beef and fish menu with
suggestions like “little dishes to share” or “big bowls and soups” served
on heavy, pottery-style dinner ware. Manager Joel Best says the
restaurant is striving for a “big city” look like a San Francisco or New
York bistro. A note “Have fun” on the menu sets the tone of Red Pearl.
From the daily specials, which range from Sunday’s wok-charred Maine
lobster to Saturday’s chipotle chicken adobo, I chose Tuesday’s crispy
Niman Ranch pork roasted on open flame ($14). The dish, which we shared,
had about 10 medium-sized pieces of tender pork with firm, thick skin in
an excellent soy ginger sauce topped with thread-thin rice noodles and
sprigs of aromatic cilantro. Chef Jeff Armstrong has a magic touch with
sauces -- they have a spicy after burn that lingers with each bite.
Unfortunately, no bread is served -- the sauce is the kind you really
want to sop up with pieces of good bread.
Barbecued salmon ($13) with a thick slice of roasted fresh pineapple,
which we also shared, is tender but firm and highly recommended along
with the large scoop of long thin rice noodles, cilantro and bits of
mandarin orange. If you desired a spicier taste, Alison had brought a
three-section plate of sauces -- one a peanut base, one a soy and onion
and one a red hot chile that challenged the heartiest tongue.
Manager Bess, who has been with Goodell’s other restaurants, Troquet
and Abergine, says you can skip the entrees and go straight to the
star-quality desserts of pastry chef Shelly Register. There’s Valrhona
Chocolate Souffle cake ($7), a muffin-sized cake filled with warm
chocolate sauce and flavored with espresso that oozes out as you fork the
cake. “Fabulous,” Alison said. Less rich, but also excellent is a
Caramelized Banana tart ($7), a firm biscuit bottom with lengthwise
slices of caramelized banana topped with a puff of real whipped cream.
Sadly no coffee is served, which would have made the desserts even
better.
According to manager Bess, the Goodell’s traveled to bistros in
several large cities to find a successful formula that would be suitable
for Huntington Beach, a community that they said “loves to eat out.” Bess
said that many patrons walk from nearby apartments, bring their friends
and enjoy the friendly “Cheers” type atmosphere.
The Red Pearl Kitchen is the new kid in town, joining other recently
opened restaurants in Downtown Huntington Beach.
* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments
or suggestions, call (562) 493-5062 or e-mail o7 [email protected]
FYI
WHAT: Red Pearl Kitchen
WHERE: 412 Walnut Ave.,HOURS: (Bar) 4:30-5:30 p.m. (food service) 5:30
p.m. untilmidnight. No reservations. Takeout available.
PHONE: (714) 969-0224
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