Dining review -- Stephen Santacroce

The holiday season has come and gone, but like many Americans, I spent

much of the holiday season overindulging on cocktail party treats, lavish

Christmas dinners, rich cookies and desserts, and holiday brunches. And

now comes my annual promise to eat healthier and try to enjoy foods that

are both tasty and good for me.

Of course, doctors and other health pundits advise that fish is one of

the healthiest foods we can eat, especially those rich in Omega-3 fatty

acids, such as salmon, tuna and trout. With this in mind, several friends

and I recently set off to visit Scott’s Seafood on Bristol Street, across

from South Coast Plaza.

Now Scott’s is by no means a health food restaurant, and not all of

the dishes are exactly what comes to mind when one thinks “diet food,”

but hey, the word “seafood” is in the title and that was good enough for

me.

Scott’s bills itself as an oasis amid the high-rises of the South

Coast Plaza business district, and as one pulls into the slightly sunken,

brick-tiled drive, past a tall spray of stately palms, it’s tempting to

start thinking of balmier locales and a wide starry sky.

Inside, Scott’s exudes an airy, tropical feel. Behind the reception

area that borders the foyer is the cozy cocktail lounge punctuated by a

horseshoe-shaped bar. Dim lighting creates a romantic atmosphere, and

small lounge tables are the perfect spot for a light meal or

after-theater cocktail. Just off the bar is the grill room, a side room

perfect for corporate events or a special occasion.

The main dining room is brighter than the lounge area, with a fresh,

open feel. The large room is bordered on one side by an exhibition

kitchen sheathed in glimmering copper that sports an oyster bar on one

end. Cream-colored walls and tan leather booths add a touch of warmth,

while ceiling fans, judiciously placed palms and whitewashed wood

shutters give the room a plantation-like ambience.

After being seated on a recent visit, our waiter, Trey, promptly

explained the evening’s specials, the soup of the day and the fresh

oysters we’d be enjoying if we ordered a half-dozen on the half shell

($13), which are served with a sharp vinaigrette and traditional cocktail

sauce.

Passing on the fresh oysters, we instead decided to sample the seared

rare ahi ($10) and the grilled crab cake ($15). The ahi was top-grade

sashimi quality, dusted in a touch of Cajun spice and very briefly

seared. Served alongside was a mixture of vegetables in a Chinese-style

ratatouille, with a pungent, hoisin-like flavor. The dish was delicious,

and the spicy vegetables were the perfect counter to the mild fish, but

to say the four of us dining each got a bite of tuna would be generous,

and the glass noodles topping off the dish seemed unnecessary to me.

The crab cake, also sized for one, was cooked just right, with a crisp

exterior, and contained a generous amount of crab cake without a lot of

breading. The roasted corn and papaya relish added a welcome sweetness to

the rich shellfish.

The chefs at Scott’s don’t go out of their way to push the culinary

cutting edge, but they know their seafood, and the menu, which borrows

from a variety of cuisines, is always reliable, with just enough

creativity to stand up to repeat visits.

This creativity is evident in dishes such as the swordfish ($25) my

friend Julie ordered. The thick filet was dusted with a polenta crust,

grilled and served over a bed of mashed potatoes seasoned with smoky

chipotle chilies. The cornmeal gave the fish a nice crunch without

overpowering the dish. The only missed step was the fried asparagus

served alongside, which turned out tough and chewy.

Julie’s husband, David, who likes well-spiced dishes, wasn’t

disappointed with the salmon ($25), served with a mango hickory glaze

over an andouille sausage hash. I wasn’t surprised that David, whom I’ve

watch pour chili sauce into dishes like it was water, would have liked

even more kick to the hash, but I found it seasoned just right. Any more

would have overpowered the smoky hickory flavor.

I settled for the dayboat scallops ($27) served over beluga lentils

and Himalayan red rice, while my friend Jennifer, fresh in the states

from a several-year stay in Europe, couldn’t resist the cioppino ($24).

Neither of us was disappointed.

Dayboat scallops are brought to market the same day they are caught,

which results in a fresher product. I couldn’t argue with the freshness

of the five plump scallops that sat perfectly seared on my plate. The

scallops were artfully served over small black lentils and reddish-hued

rice, making for a dish that was pleasing to look at and satisfying to

eat.

The cioppino was served in a large bowl brimming with lobster, crab

claws, chunks of fresh fish and meaty mussels and clams, all nestled in a

hearty tomato broth flavored with mellow roasted garlic. A spear of crisp

garlic toast topped of the hearty dish.

Landlubbers visiting Scott’s don’t have to worry, the menu sports a

selection of top-notch meat dishes, including a 10-ounce filet mignon

($32) and a rack of lamb ($26) featuring a generous portion of three

double-cut chops.

I was also pleased with the wine list, which featured an ample

selection of California and foreign wines at reasonable prices. I was

particularly pleased to see some of my favorite central-coast chardonnay

labels, such as Sanford and Cambria, on the list.

Desserts such as the chocolate riot cake ($7.50), a rich flourless

cake infused with bourbon, don’t disappoint either, and Scott’s offers an

ample selection of ports, brandies and dessert wines to complement your

sweets or a steaming espresso.

Perched next to the Westin hotel, Scott’s serves a varied clientele,

including hungry shoppers, harried business people, curious tourists and

demanding locals. It’s a tribute that they seem to offer something to

please everyone, with a dependable menu that may not be cutting edge but

offers some of the freshest seafood in a relaxing setting with an

attentive staff.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’s restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at [email protected].

FYI

* WHAT: Scott’s Seafood

* WHERE: 3300 Bristol St., Costa Mesa

* WHEN: Lunch is offered from 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through

Friday. Brunch is served from 11:30 to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Dinner

is served from 4:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 4:30 to 11 p.m.

Friday, 3 to 11 p.m. Saturday and 3 to 10 p.m. Sunday.

* MISCELLANEOUS: Scott’s serves dinner a half-hour past the end of any

performance at Segerstrom Hall and the Orange County Performing Arts

Center.

* HOW MUCH: Expensive

* PHONE: (714) 979-2400