Tirelessly pushing its way through the Panama Canal

Lt. John Kidwell, Special to the Pilot

Editor’s Note: During a 35-day journey from New Orleans to Newport

Beach via the Panama Canal, Lt. John Kidwell, commander of the new Coast

Guard cutter Narwhal, has offered to keep the Newport-Mesa community

updated on the crew’s journey through a series of e-mail reports and

photos from a dozen ports of call. The following is his sixth report as

he takes our readers aboard the ship:

On the morning of Aug. 5, we cast off lines from British Grand Cayman

and headed south to Panama. Our short stay in the Grand Caymans was

outstanding. However, after only a few days it was time to move on.

The 625-mile track line to Cristobol, Panama was, at 10 knots, a long one. Encountering heavy seas the entire way, the crew was able to conduct

training and build a greater faith in their new ship’s abilities under

extreme conditions.

Both Narwhal and her crew operated flawlessly in the heavy weather,

encountering more than 10- to 15-foot seas. Looking back, this leg was

nothing short of exhausting. I would recommend to any mariner of a

smaller vessel to sail southeast to Port De Limon, Costa Rica (on the

gulf side) and break up the trip, giving themselves some much needed rest

and supplies.

At about 0900 (9 a.m.) on the morning of Aug. 8, we arrived in Panama.

Negotiating the canal quickly becomes a logistic nightmare for a smaller

vessel like ours. Unable to transit alone, we were forced along the side

wall and stuck between numerous large freighters. The quick 42-mile trip

ended up taking us more than 19 hours.

Anyone thinking about making this journey, please feel free to contact

us when we return to our Corona del Mar moorings. We collected much

information that would be beneficial to smaller vessels to make the

transit safer and faster.

Arriving at 0200 (2 a.m.) in Rodman, Panama, with no available pier

space, we were fortunate to find the U.S. Coast Guard cutter Gentian -- a

180-foot international training vessel. She allowed us to moor alongside,

take on fuel and get a few hours of rest. The crew of the Gentian were

lifesavers.

It was great to see a friendly face after the long, 19-hour transit.

Once fueled and with just an hour or two of rest, we set sail for the

blue water of the Pacific. The entire crew was extremely happy and

cheered as our gyro compass read “north.” Our next stop would be Golfito,

Costa Rica.

***

Leaving Panama behind us, we started on our 329-mile track line to

Golfito, Costa Rica. Incredibly, the clouds parted and the seas calmed,

making this leg a welcome rest. Immediately entering Golfito, Costa Rica,

we were greeted with overwhelming hospitality. Costa Rica is

breathtaking, to say the least.

The port of Golfito is very sheltered and the moorings are good for a

vessel of almost any size. I strongly recommend Golfito to be a stop on

any northbound mariner’s sail plan. Not physically touching land since

British Grand Cayman, the crew was due for a good liberty stop. Taking in

the local sights: the mountains, the jungles and, of course, the

incredible surfing, the crew is really getting a chance to stretch its

legs.

Logistically, Golfito is perfect. Water, fuel and provisions are all

readily available. Even more importantly, the people of Golfito are

incredibly friendly and helpful. As far as port stops go, I don’t know if

we are going to be able to top this one. So far, Costa Rica has my vote,

and the vote on the ship is overwhelmingly the same.

Looking forward, we will be departing on Monday morning (Aug. 13) for

Fonseca, El Salvador. Once there, the Commander of the El Salvadoran

Navy, as well as the crew of the El Salvadoran Naval Vessel PM-12, will

await us. PM-12 is formerly the U.S. Coast Guard cutter Point Stuart of

Corona del Mar.

We are very much looking forward to seeing our old ship and see how

she is performing for the Navy of El Salvador. We are also excited to see

the El Salvadoran crew, who we all befriended back in April. We often

wonder how their transit south worked out, after they took control of

their new ship. We shall see.