Dining Out

Mary Furr

Huntington Beach is a cluster of many neighborhoods within the

boundaries of a city -- each different and each exciting in its own way.

One -- the Seagate Plaza at Bolsa Chica and Edinger -- has Giovanni’s.

It’s a family owned restaurant with some great pastas and sauces from the

kitchen of owners Naomi George and her late husband Floyd.

They grew up together just seven houses apart in Iowa City, Iowa,

eating from recipes they now serve at Giovanni’s. I call it Midwestern

Italian with meat sauce pebbled with ground sirloin, thick with three

cheeses: ricotta, mozzarella and provolone. There is a trace of garlic

and spices.

A specialty, served only on Thursdays, is their version of panzerotti,

a big unwieldy pizza turnover, like a calzone, filled with seasoned meat.

It’s folded in hand-stretched pizza dough and baked to a golden brown.

It’s a delight to eat and heady to inhale its steamy aroma. The specialty

that fills the 12-table place with engineers and other workers from the

nearby offices.

Cook Jesse Jacobi came with Giovanni’s when the Georges purchased it

nearly 23 years ago. He did a great job with the pizza we ordered -- an

eight-inch mini with five items: sausage, olives, mushrooms, onions and

salami ($6.50). Chef Jesse lets the dough rise twice before stretching it

by hand for each pizza, which gives it a unique, crisp but chewy crust,

thickly rolled around the edges -- great to chew on.

But Giovanni’s is an Italian restaurant and that means pasta. Here

it’s the “wet” variety made with eggs for a firm, chewy taste. A ravioli

dinner (dinner $9.40, a la carte $7.85) has a hot platter of 12 pasta

pockets filled with spinach or cheese completely covered with that thick

meaty tomato sauce -- strong and sturdy stuff -- no need to add the

Parmesan sprinkle.

Cannelloni -- pasta tubes served in a small casserole, hot from the

oven -- are filled with loads of the same sauce.

Salads, sandwiches, lunches and dinners are all Italian, but desserts

are pure Midwest. Naomi makes the family recipes from Ohio and

Pennsylvania -- carrot cake ($2.50), spicy with nuts, raisins and pieces

of pineapple, is the best. Though one time it was rather dry. There is

also a fat, round cream puff filled with vanilla custard ($2.50) or the

equally dreamy dark chocolate.

Giovanni’s has the aroma of fresh homemade food and the friendly

warmth of a family kitchen with owner Naomi and her daughter Sherry

greeting customers in the dining room.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

FYI

Giovanni’s Italian Restaurant

Where: 16041 Bolsa Chica Road, Huntington Beach

Phone: 846-4666 or 846-8188

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Tuesday through SaturdayMisc.: Cash only