STEPHEN SANTACROCE -- Dining Review

There are a handful of restaurants in Orange County that have for

years exemplified the style of fine dining preferred by the well-heeled

and well-moneyed elite. Some, such as John Dominus, have faded away.

Others, such as The Ritz and The Five Crowns, continue on.

Antonello, in South Coast Village, has been one such restaurant,

treating diners to an Old World Italian atmosphere since 1979. Owner

Antonio Cagnolo hails from Bistagno, a small village in northern Italy.

When he opened the restaurant, with the help of his mother and father,

Antonio wanted to re-create the atmosphere and cuisine of his hometown,

and for the most part he’s been successful.

The main dining room of the restaurant tries to re-create the illusion

of dining outside in a small village square. Broad wood beams cross the

high, vaulted ceiling, and faux terrace windows add to the impression of

being outdoors. The rough stucco walls are painted with hanging vines and

faded road directions -- yes, even at Antonello, all roads lead to Rome.

Padded high-back chairs and crisp, white table linens add a touch of

elegance, as does the tuxedo-wearing serving staff.

In addition to the main dining area, Antonello boasts no less than six

private dining rooms, including a small room off the kitchen that’s

accessible only from the outside, and a larger bi-level wine cellar room

complete with wooden barrels and tile floors. Needless to say, many

corporate parties and special events are held throughout the year, and

dignitaries, including former President Bill Clinton, have been known to

stop in.

Capitalizing on this success, Antonello has begun marketing its own

line of pasta sauces, trying to bring some of their world-class cooking

to diners’ homes. I think this is great, but I didn’t appreciate the

little booklets at each table advertising the sauces along with a

well-known brand of premium Italian pasta. I expect coupons at a

fast-food restaurant, not someplace that emphasizes fine dining.

My alarm at Antonello’s commercial ventures increased when on several

recent visits I found the usually top-notch cuisine not up to the usual

standards.

Chef Franco Barone has always impressed me with his menu that remains

true to Antonello’s northern Italian roots both in offerings and

execution. The selections have always emphasized fresh ingredients and

classic preparations, featuring homemade pastas and organic Piedmontese

beef.

Antipasti is a must at any northern Italian meal, a selection of

appetizers to awaken the palate while enjoying a cocktail or aperitif.

Exemplifying the simplicity of such dishes is fried mozzarella ($8.95),

fresh, creamy cheese that has been lightly breaded and quickly fried and

topped with a light marinara sauce. The cheese melts just slightly,

contrasting nicely with the crisp bread-crumb coating.

Fried calamari ($9.50) is one of my tests of good Italian cooking and

is one of the dishes that disappointed recently. Usually the calamari

are crisp and light, and fried just right so as to still be tender. On a

recent lunch visit, they were perfect, as I’d come to expect. But at

dinner, a few days later, they were overcooked and about as appetizing as

rubber bands.

Northern Italians are meat lovers, and the Trio di Antipasti ($12.50)

shows off a variety of cured meats such as brasaola (air-cured beef),

prosciutto and paper-thin carpaccio, the raw beef delicacy so popular

these days. The assortment is drizzled with lemon and truffle-scented

oil, and is the perfect companion, with a few slices of bread, to a

refreshing campari and soda.

Pasta is traditionally a first course in Italy, but as in most

American restaurants, the portions are entree-sized at Antonello,

although the attentive staff will gladly split a portion for a first

course.

Homemade Ravioli in Duck Ragu ($16.95) embodies the richness of

northern Italian food. Pasta packages are filled with a savory braised

duck mixture and served with a rich tomato-based sauce that incorporates

more duck meat. I have a tough time choosing between these or the

Ravioletti ($16.95), which are miniature ravioli stuffed with veal in a

hearty meat sauce. The choices one has to make.

One choice I’d skip is the Tortellini ($17.95). This pricey pasta

features a filling fonduta (sort of a white cheese sauce) and truffles,

with a brown butter and sage sauce. I found the filling pasty, and

although I could taste some truffle essence, I couldn’t detect any sage

at all.

Entrees feature an entire section devoted to Piedmontese beef, which

is leaner and lower in fat and cholesterol than the American variety.

It’s at its best in the simplest form, a Porterhouse ($31.50) that’s

pan-seared with olive oil, rosemary and garlic, and accompanied by

sauteed spinach and crispy roasted potatoes.

Less successful is the Straccetti ($28.50), which offers thin strips

of the same beef sauteed with wine and shallots and served over a potato

puree, a fancy way of saying mashed potatoes. The dish is boring, plain

and simple, and in my opinion, a waste of this wonderful meat.

Besides the calamari, I always judge an Italian restaurant by its

veal, and this is one of the areas where Antonello stands out. Scallopini

alla Zia Renata ($26.50) features thin slices of veal loin quickly

sauteed with a sauce of wine, oregano, garlic and tomato. I don’t know

where the chef gets his veal, but it’s some of the best I’ve had on the

West Coast, with an almost creamy texture. The sauce adds a deserved

spiciness to the mild meat, without drowning its delicate flavor.

Also good is the Roasted Veal Chop ($33.50) almost always offered as a

special, usually with a simple reduction sauce of wild mushrooms.

The wine list at Antonello reflects Sommelier Steve Ebol’s philosophy

of offering the best wines to pair with the restaurant’s cuisine. The

award-winning list features an extensive selection of French and

Californian vintages, as well as a broad choice of Italian wines from

several regions.

The portions are generous at Antonello but try to leave room for

dessert, even if you have to share. My favorite is the Panna Cotta

($7.50), which in Italian translates literally to “cooked cream.” This

rich dessert is the Italian version of flan but has a creamier, milkier

flavor.

Antonello continues to offer a world-class dining experience

highlighted by superb service in an elegant atmosphere. The kitchen seems

to have suffered from lapse in consistency, but more often than not the

food is good, and a few missteps won’t keep me from returning for

Antonello’s authentic northern Italian fare.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at [email protected].

FYI

WHAT: AntonelloWHERE: 1611 Sunflower Drive in South Coast VillageWHEN:

Lunch is offered 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner is

offered 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday.

HOW MUCH: Expensive

PHONE: (714) 751-7153