DINING -- MARY FURR

Just off the San Diego Freeway at Beach Boulevard and Center Street in

Huntington Beach is Old World Village, a unique collection of small shops

and cafes where some of the owners live above their shops as they would

in Europe. It’s here at that we found Villa Capri with some of the most

authentic Italian food around.

Stepping into the open door of the small, 14-table cafe, was like

stopping for lunch or dinner at a country inn. Blond tousle-haired

Manager Joanna Rosati from Bari, Italy, leads you to a table and the

adventure begins.

On one visit we had sandwiches -- panini Italiano ($6.95), a classic

combo of sliced prosciutto ham, salami, mozzarella cheese with tomato and

lettuce on a light croissant from DiSimone Bakery. And a really drippy

one, Panino con Salsicce ($6.95), Italian sausage in a mildly spicy

marinara sauce on a soft roll.

Both had the Villa Carpe salad with romaine, sliced carrots and

tomato, mushrooms, intensely flavored sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke

hearts with spiral rotelli pasta. That’s a plentiful lunch, hard to beat.

On a diner visit, when “It’s really romantic,” says Rosati, tables

have candles and fairy lights shine among the twisted vine that loops

across the ceiling. At Villa Capri the food is as intensely flavored as

the ambience.

Ravioli Gamberi ($17.95), an entree special, had firm yet slightly

chewy pasta pockets stuffed with minced shrimp in a smooth creamy garlic

sauce topped with slivers of smoked salmon. The ravioli was very good,

but the salmon had a fishy flavor that was distracting.

Chef Jose Abarca had been with Villa Capri when it was Stefano’s and

he uses recipes learned while assisting that chef.

The entrees come with a really great tortellini soup of tiny

cheese-filled pasta in a fresh tomato broth with bits of tomato and

sprinkled with spinach leaves. Villa Capri has a home-style approach to

even the ordinary that makes each dish special. The tomato is one of the

three soups offered at lunch for $3.95, with the DiSimone bread it would

be a good light lunch.

On the dinner menu, Veal Scalappini Royale ($18.95), typical of

northern Italian cuisine, has veal medallions and big thick slices of

mushrooms smothered in an aromatic white wine and garlic sauce with

astringent artichoke hearts that add a zestiness to the creamy richness.

The sauce is the star here, covering the veal and clinging to the

ridges of the penne pasta tubes. Shrimp is also included with a selection

of bright colored steamed vegetables.

Each dish is prepared when ordered, but with a dish like the veal, the

kitchen may be slow. For a quick lunch, the paninis are the best bet.

Tiramisu ($4.95), made in-house, is an innocent looking square of

really thick but soft cow’s milk mascarpone cheese layers and light

sponge cake. The word means “carry me up” and it’s easy to assume that it

means “to heaven.” And when it’s homemade as at Villa Capri, that’s

especially true.

Owner Doug Hayes bought Villa Capri three months ago and hasn’t

changed much. The large menu will accommodate various tastes and

informative manager Rosati adds a special charm. She says that Villa

Capri is so authentic she doesn’t feel home sick for Bari.

*MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

* WHAT: Villa Capri

* WHERE: 7561 Center Ave., Old World Village, Huntington Beach.

* PHONE: (714) 373-5399

* HOURS: Open Tuesday through Friday; lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.;

dinner, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.

* OTHER: Beer and wine; credit cards accepted