MARY FURR -- DINING OUT

It was the luck of the Irish that led us to Silky Sullivan’s

Restaurant and pub, where the lean corned beef and cabbage warmed our

hearts.

This close-to-authentic Irish pub on Slater Avenue in Fountain Valley

opened 17 years ago by the Madden brothers, Bill and Dan, Rob Reiniche

and Rob Robertson, all experienced restaurateurs.

They will be expecting a crowd to celebrate St. Patrick’s day not only

in the restaurant and pub but in the party tent which they erect each

year in the parking lot.

On a recent rainy day -- the kind you’d expect in Ireland -- we

ordered an excellent corned beef and cabbage ($6.95), seven lean slices

of brisket full of flavor with a wedge of firm steamed cabbage and a pile

of carrots and small peeled potatoes.

According to co-owner Rob Robertson, the beef is cooked with the fat

on for flavor and then trimmed before serving. An excellent dish, “ole

Jiggs” of funny paper fame would approve.

We chose the tortilla soup over salad, a warming tortilla with

carrots, potatoes, cauliflower, onions and celery in a spicy tomato stock

garnished with a pile of cheddar and mozzarella cheese and narrow crisp

corn strips.

Chef Matt Huebner, who’s been at Silky’s for 13 years, does a good job

with fresh fish, a generous fillet of halibut ($7.95) prepared

Monterrey-style with a tomato slice topped with melted mozzarella and

avocado slices surrounded by a colorful vegetable medley, thankfully, no

zucchini, just cauliflower, carrots, celery and potato.

An original with Silky’s that is a real creation is Sullivan’s Irish

sundae ($4.95), a baked potato stuffed with chunks of au jus-soaked prime

rib and mushrooms topped with melted cheese and sour cream.

The Irish really know how to dress up a potato.

Another good starter is Buffalo hot shrimp ($5.95), a platter of

celery and carrot strips with a garlicky blue cheese dipping sauce and a

whole mess of curled-up shrimp covered in that spicy sauce made famous in

Buffalo.

They’re hot and great, you’ll need a cool Guinness or Harp to quench

the fire.

Desserts are simple, a variety of cheesecakes. An inch and a half high

slice of Bailey’s Irish cream cheese cake ($3.95) was dry and not as rich

as this dish usually is.

Service is leisurely and the atmosphere relaxing, so don’t expect a

“quick lunch” tempo.

When Silky Sullivan’s opened 17 years ago, it was one of the original

sports bars, complete with 14 TV screens showing national sporting

events.

Next week, they will open at 9 a.m. for the NCAA Basketball

Tournament.

Silky’s has developed into a real “Cheers” bar with a feeling of

warmth and friendship between owners, like the Maddens who live in

Fountain Valley, and the regulars.

There will be a pre-party from 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. Friday and live

entertainment with Gene Murrell and the Band from Huntington Beach on

Saturday, St. Pat’s Day.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

SILKY SULLIVAN’S RESTAURANT AND IRISH PUB

* ADDRESS: 10201 Slater Ave., Fountain Valley

* HOURS: 11 a.m. to 1:30 a.m., open at 9 a.m. Saturday for breakfast,

Sunday brunch

* MISC.: Credit cards accepted