STEPHEN SANTACROCE - Dining Review

Bistro 201 opened at the very peak of the highflying ‘80s. Real

estate was king, and affluent developers were stumbling over each other

on the way to the BMW dealer and boatyards. Up-and-coming restaurateur

David Wilhelm, still relishing the success of his first effort, Laguna

Beach’s Kachina, opened Bistro 201 in the heart of the Irvine financial

district, close to other trendy newcomers Bistango and Prego Ristorante.

The restaurant was an instant success. I should know -- at the time, I

worked on the top floor of the building that housed Bistro 201 and

frequented it often.

The menu featured innovative California cuisine that was new and

exciting, and no expense was spared on the upscale, intimate decor.

Bistro 201 moved a few years later to its current location on West

Coast Highway, and Wilhelm has since sold the restaurant and moved on to

other ventures. The restaurant recently changed hands and is now owned by

Hospitality Management Corp., a group that also owns Aysia 101 and Diva.

The new owners upgraded the decor, and it was money well spent. The

dated ‘80s look has been replaced with a more contemporary and tasteful

atmosphere. Pin spots and wall sconces provide soft accents, while

hardwoods and rich cream linens add warmth.

A large glass wall along one side of the restaurant offers a

spectacular view of Newport Harbor. It’s a perfect spot for a sunset

cocktail.

The original menu at Bistro 201 was innovative, taking risks and

exposing diners to new and unusual tastes. The new owners have opted for

a safer, more corporate approach that won’t offend anyone but left me

frustrated. I couldn’t help but feel there was a lot of unrealized

promise here.

The crab cake starter ($11.50) is a case in point. The two sea

scallop-size crab cakes served over a bed of greens were moist and had

enough crab meat to almost justify the high price. But the red pepper

coulis had so little pepper flavor that my friend Karen ate the entire

plate without complaining once -- and she can’t stand red peppers.

The grilled iceberg lettuce wedge ($6.95) would have been fine but

seemed a disappointment after the lofty billing offered by our server,

who professed it to be the best thing on the menu. Searing the lettuce

gave it an interesting, smoky flavor, but I couldn’t taste any of the

mustard vinaigrette the lettuce was supposedly marinated in.

The standout appetizer is the prosciutto-wrapped figs ($10.95). Thin

slices of the famous Italian ham are wrapped around caramelized figs and

grilled until the meat just starts to crisp. The tasty bundles are served

over a bed of baby spinach tossed with a light balsamic vinegar dressing.

The salty meat is the perfect complement to the sweet, plump figs,

creating a nice marriage of flavor and texture.

Chef Jeff Moore tag-teams between the company’s three restaurants, and

the result is a menu at Bistro 201 that lacks distinction or personality.

Moore has opted for a streamlined approach with his entrees, separating

the menu into two sections -- one featuring meats from the mesquite oven

and the other offering seafood selections.

While the decor may have been recently updated, the menu seems stuck

in the early ‘90s. Don’t believe me? The servers were proud to point out

that several of the items, such as the roasted sea bass ($21.95) over

lumpy mashed potatoes, have been on the menu for more than nine years.

Salmon ($19.95) is served wrapped in a potato crust with a citrus

butter pesto basil sauce. Sound good? Picture a perfectly good piece of

salmon wrapped in a soggy potato chip, and you’ll get the picture. The

sauce tasted neither of citrus or much of basil.

The rack of lamb ($24.95) fared better, augmented by a simple mint and

garlic reduction. The lamb was tender and cooked exactly as I ordered,

and the sauce featured just enough mint to tease my palate without

overpowering it.

There was nothing wrong with the filet mignon ($22.95), a 10-ounce

portion served over a toasted crouton with a bearnaise sauce, but it

didn’t set off any bells or whistles either.

Probably the best thing we tried was the surf-and-turf combo ($39.95).

Although expensive, this entree proved that sometimes simple is best. The

lobster was plump and sweet, and the aforementioned filet was perfectly

cooked.

The lack of creativity and innovation in the menu was also evident in

the wine list, which featured a relatively obscure selection of mostly

California wines. The ones I recognized were ridiculously overpriced.

You’d be much better off paying the $10 corkage fee and bringing

something from your own cellar.

If the chef has one moment of culinary perfection, it’s Bistro 201’s

chocolate souffle ($6.50). It was the best in town when the restaurant

first opened, and it’s still the best in my book. The rich, chocolaty

souffle is light and airy. At the table, the server punches a hole in the

center and pours in a generous helping of velvety chocolate sauce. The

result is a decadent, sublime experience that makes one realize why

souffles are worth the effort.

Our waitress suggested that some vanilla ice cream with raspberries

was the perfect accompaniment. She was right, although she failed to

inform us that this addition would set us back $7.50, $1 more than the

souffle! Oh well, suits me for not asking.

The original Bistro 201 came onto the scene with cutting-edge cuisine

that presented a taste that was fresh and invigorating. The current

incarnation offers a nicer setting and spectacular view, but is a toned

down corporate effort that features none of the inspiration of its

predecessor.

It’s like the voluptuous blond in a TV sitcom: pretty to look at, but

no substance.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at [email protected].

FYI

WHAT: Bistro 201

WHERE: 3333 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach

WHEN: Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday.

Dinner hours are 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and Saturday, and 5

to 11 p.m. Friday. Sunday brunch runs from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

HOW MUCH: Expensive

PHONE: (949) 631-1551