DINING OUT -- MARY FURR

If there had been a restaurant and saloon in the Yukon like the one on

Brookhurst Street in Fountain Valley, the claim jumper would never have

been jumped. He’d have stayed right there to enjoy the jumbo-sized

sandwiches, the overwhelming salads and the ribs and steaks that threaten

the hearts of meat-lovers everywhere.

The bustling Claim Jumper is a restaurant that delegates authority --

there’s someone for every service -- a cashier, a hostess and a seater to

greet you at the entrance. When you’re at your table, there is a waitress

to take your order, a beverage server for refills, a runner to bring your

entree hot and finally a busboy to clear.

Although Claim Jumper is large enough for a banquet, its warren of

dining alcoves with colorful Tiffany lamps over each booth promotes

intimacy. The menu is large and detailed and only hints at the

extravagance of the servings.

The cashew chicken salad sandwich ($8.95) on thick-sliced rosemary

olive bread has dice-sized chicken with celery, tomato, lettuce and curry

flavored mayonnaise. A sandwich so thick it had to be disassembled to eat

-- it’s just a sample of the very generous servings of everything.

Sandwiches and burgers are served with a choice of shoestring

potatoes, broccoli or potato salad and a great Thai slaw with peanuts and

a sweet-spicy flavor. Flavors are distinctive but not aggressive.

Swordfish (dinner $20.95, lunch $11.95), in season now, is served

char-marked with the signature tomato basis salsa on the side and a large

platter of fresh broccoli flowers, zucchini and carrots -- a colorful,

delicious and healthful choice.

We chose to share an excellent spinach salad ($4.95) with tender baby

leaves tossed with chunky threadlike noodles, candied pecans and feta

cheese in a sweet citrus dressing -- a combination that was unusual but

exciting.

In the specialties section of the menu is the ore cart ($23.95) a

selection that would put Henry VIII to shame. The platter is built with

the biggest charcoal blackened beef ribs on the bottom, the meat tight to

the bone. Next is a slab of pork baby backs densely flavored with

hickory. Finally, on top, are the red ale spare ribs with a haunting

flavor and meat that fell in big chunks off the bone. If you need extra

barbecue sauce, there’s a tortilla cup filed with a spicy tomato one that

is also available for sale ($2.99 a bottle).

The desserts are the final challenge -- a neighboring booth had the

eclair ($7.95) that looked as big as a birthday cake. If you’re not into

sharing, order a mud pie from the kid’s Little Jumper menu (child $3.50,

adult $7.95) as we did -- a large slice of mocha ice cream (you have a

flavor choice), with an Oreo chocolate cookie crust and the rich Helen

Grace syrup on the side. This is really the mother lode strike at the

Claim Jumper.

The upbeat excitement of the Claim Jumper makes it a restaurant for

all occasions -- the coffee may not always be hot but the atmosphere is

warm.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

o7

FYI

CLAIM JUMPER

f7 WHERE: 18050 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley

PHONE: (714) 963-6711

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Friday and Saturday