KATHY MADER -- Dining Review

I am always excited to try a new restaurant that, by word of mouth, is

new and unique. It just surprised me that this particular new and unique

restaurant, Galeo’s Cafe, has been open for four years now. Galeo’s, with

the sexy sign on Coast Highway just doors down from Dolce in a set back

strip of stores, defines eclectic and lives up to the original definition

of motley -- “of many colors.”

I had no idea what to expect from Galeo’s Cafe as I had misread the

sign over and over to read Galileo’s and here I walk in, looking for a

plate of gnocchi to go. I was just in the wrong part of Europe, that’s

all.

“European Home Cooking” is painted on the front window along with

Espresso and Coffee, and little black tables are set up for patio

snacking. The view is questionable, with a parking lot and Coast Highway

as the main events, yet if you watch the highway for long enough,

something interesting always happens.

This location makes it very convenient for the lunch crowd, plus they

have plenty of parking. And I should mention that Galeo’s is a breakfast

and lunch crowd place.

Owner and chef Andre Leontieff, with his partner Gordona Samardzic,

came to the United States from London, where they ran their own

restaurant about 10 years ago. Four years ago, they opened Galeo’s not

only to introduce some of their signature dishes, but to showcase their

“World’s Best Miso Toasted Sesame Seed Dressing, Marinade and Dip,” a

condiment that you can now find in Mother’s Market and soon everywhere

else. They guarantee “one taste and you are hooked.” It definitely adds

to their turkey sandwich.

When you walk in -- here’s where the “motley” comes in -- it looks

like NASCAR exploded on the ceiling with giant black and white checks and

painted flames. An extensive and previously consumed wine collection is

amazingly attached to a yellow splattered wall. More little black tables

and artsy looking steel chairs add to that Euro-cafe feel. A giant,

ultramodern yellow gum-ball machine is right in the center, and if that

isn’t eclectic in design enough for you, a large ficus tree is decorated

with hanging bagels, bananas, bunches of grapes and stalks of celery.

Just in case you come in at an odd hour, you can verify that it must

be lunch time somewhere by the row of clocks telling the time in every

major European city.

Galeo’s has a glassed-in baked goods counter, which is always a major

plus in my eyes and the goods should go wonderfully with their “Best

tasting coffee.” I don’t drink coffee, so unfortunately I can’t vouch

for that last claim. If you get there in the morning, this case is loaded

with everything from croissants and bagels to fruit-filled scones.

Breakfast is big here, and as the menu says “fresh daily eggs from

known chickens are broken to your order.” I am not exactly sure what that

means, but I think I like it. I had the fresh fruit salad ($5) with a

truly impressive selection of fruit mixed with raisins and nuts and

sprinkled with granola. I could have done without the nuts.

The “Galeo’s Famous Scramble” ($7.95), with Scottish smoked salmon,

onions and capers scrambled into those aforementioned “familiar” eggs, is

one of their most popular items. Other scramble combinations are

available, from old standbys to an interesting “protein plate scramble”

of turkey or roast beef, onions and cheese served with cottage cheese for

all you Atkins followers.

The two breakfast items that really caught my eye, and that I have yet

to try, are the strawberry-banana Brule oatmeal ($5.95), oatmeal with

caramelized brown sugar and topped with fresh strawberries and bananas,

and the “chocolate Delizia,” a homemade croissant with melted chocolate,

made to order. Now you’re talking. And you don’t have to “know” any

chickens.

The lunch menu is even more varied, with salads, sandwiches and pizza

all with either a Russian, Greek or Italian influence. We tried the

turkey sandwich, which I liked a lot, but imagine this: a Russian chef

and a Romanian chef here from London throw jalapenos into this sandwich

mix. Have I said eclectic yet?

We also tried the Scottish smoked salmon sandwich, which came off a

little soggy due to all the cream cheese. And yes, there were a few

jalapenos on the side along with a zippy but funky Russian potato salad.

The pizza ($8.95), on a cracker-thin crust with sliced tomatoes,

capers, black olives and shaved prosciutto was much better, but not very

big. All in all, I prefer the breakfast menu.

But Galeo’s does offer a small but good beer list and a longer and

better wine list, including both local and European regions. This might

help with the view.

View aside, Galeo’s is definitely unique from other local restaurants

and lives up to its claim of “European.” Now I know they just mean the

entire continent. And go ahead and try that dressing.

* KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.

FYI

* WHERE: 930 West Coast Highway, Newport Beach

* HOURS: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily

* HOW MUCH?: moderate

* CALL: (949) 574-0202