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Sue Doyle
NEWPORT BEACH -- Big surf rolled into local beaches Friday,
transforming the coastline into a paradise for surfers dismayed by weeks
of small, flat waves.
The 3- to 5-foot surf slapped against the coast and is expected to
rise to 7 feet by today, especially between 48th Street and the Santa Ana
River mouth, said Adam Wright, forecaster for Surfline, a Huntington
Beach-based surf forecasting service.
Plentiful swells were no surprise to surfers who heard the news early
and piled into local beaches all day long. Some even called in “sick” at
work to take advantage of their good fortune.
Brian Brinson of Costa Mesa was one of those who felt “under the
weather” Friday and hit the beach around 52nd Street with his brother,
Scott.
“This is one of my favorite spots, but it’s really crowded today,”
Brian Brinson said. “It’s still good and I blew off work just to surf.”
Scott Brinson had been surfing for the past few days and knew a big
swell was coming up. He said he prefers surfing at San Onofre because
there are fewer crowds.
“Newport has good waves but five times too many people,” he said. “If
you stay out there long enough, it’s worth it.”
Surfers can thank an antarctic storm July 20 for the southwest swell.
A tropical low-pressure storm merged with a cold frontal storm and
generated a stretch of wind that brought the waves here, Wright said.
But surfers and others who enjoy big waves shouldn’t get too
accustomed to the bigger surf.
By Sunday afternoon, the swells are expected to drop to 3 to 4 feet
and then taper off throughout the day, Wright said.
Still, that won’t affect people like Ted Cook, who didn’t call in sick
Friday. The Newport Beach resident works the night shift.
“Hey, I live right here and can take advantage of the waves every
day,” he said.
FYI
For daily surf reports, check Surfline’s Web site at o7
https://www.surfline.comf7 .
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