MARY FURR -- Dining Out

Heeney’s Weeneys Bar-BQ, at Beach Boulevard and Garfield Avenue in

Huntington Beach, is sort of hidden behind Bravo Burger and squeezed

between a doughnut shop and a dry cleaners in a strip mall called Plaza

de la Playa. But, once you’ve found it, you’ll never forget the beef

brisket and the pork ribs, beans and bratwurst.

The menu is simple. Owner Tom Heeney concentrates on barbecue

specialties in the big smoker just behind the order counter. The

storefront has four large picnic tables that seat six and a child-sized

table for kids. There’s a big mirror on one wall and ceramic pigs,

stuffed pigs and pig motifs all over the place.

A quick lunch can be a barbecue chicken, turkey, beef brisket or pork

sandwich ($5.49) or a Wally Whopper ($5.49), which is a Cajun bratwurst

that is like nothing you’ve seen or eaten before. A soft roll cradles a

tightly filled pork sausage with a skin that’s firm but slightly tough

for a sandwich. Bedded in mild sauerkraut and covered with onions and a

spicy Cajun mustard, it’s a robust mouthful. The sausages Tom uses are

from Usingers in Milwaukee.

A side dish comes with all sandwiches, and the homemade peel-on potato

salad with red-skinned potatoes mixed with sour cream, mayonnaise and

dill is cool and filling.

For a bigger lunch or dinner, you can’t beat the Plates ($7.49); six

tender and meaty pork ribs almost falling off the big bones is one

choice. Tom’s daughter, Evie Miqueleiz -- who is running the place while

her dad has surgery on his arthritic hands -- says the ribs and brisket

are steam-cooked every day and then wrapped in foil, basted with Tom’s

special sauce and put in the smoker for three to four hours. Excellent

flavor results, but the meat could have been heated more.

If beef is your choice, the Barbecue Brisket ($7.49) is excellent.

Tender pieces served in a medium thick, slightly sweet sauce are covered

with sliced onions. It’s one of the most popular selections and can be

bought by the pound for takeout.

Plates include a biscuit or corn bread with two side dishes chosen

from seven. Among the choices are small red pinto beans mixed with

jalepeno peppers and cooked about three hours to give them a special

latent spiciness, au gratin potatoes in a thick cheddar cheese sauce, or

purple and white cole slaw. It’s a mix-and-match kind of place, very

relaxed and friendly with customers talking from table to table.

Summer is a great time to entertain outside, and Heeney’s offers a

Piranha Platter for seven ($31.99) or for four ($17.99), and Mondays and

Thursdays are Rib Night -- a rack costs $11.99.

You have to believe Tom Heeney’s motto: “Our wurst is the best. Would

I steer you wrong?”

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments

or suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.

FYI

Heeney’s Weeneys Bar-BQ

WHERE: 19092 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach

HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday, until 8 p.m. Tuesday through

Saturday

CALL: (714) 963-0054

MISC.: Beer, wine and soft drinks, but no coffee. Credit cards

accepted.