MARY FURR -- DINING OUT

Seventeen years ago, when brothers Nicolas and Renzo Macchiavello came

from Lima, Peru, to Huntington Beach, it was love at first sight. They

loved the ocean, the friendly atmosphere and abundance of fresh fruits

and vegetables.

It was a mutual attraction -- Surf City welcomed the new taste from south

of the border: Peruvian food with all its variations.

Benefiting from experience in their parents’ restaurants in Lima, Nico

learned the American way of business at Disneyland while Renzo attended

the Los Angeles Culinary Institute. Together, they opened the Peruvian

Grill two years ago.

Soups are a great introduction. o7 Aquadito de f7 po7 ollof7 (small

$2.50, large $7) is a huge bowl of dark broth thickened with minced fresh

vegetables and chicken. It has a whiff of fresh cilantro and sneaky

spices hidden in the first spoonful. With thick-cut French bread, it’s a

great lunch.

o7 Sopa de f7 do7 ietaf7 (small $4, large $6) in contrast has a

clear chicken broth with bright, crisp red and green bell pepper, pieces

of cabbage and bean sprouts, corn kernels and peas floating like fish in

an aquarium.

Another wonderful new entree, o7 camarones al ajillof7 , has eight

medium-sized, tail-on shrimp in a creamy garlic sauce flecked with bits

of green onions and red and green peppers. The mild sauce wraps itself

around the firm shrimp in this comforting dish served with a huge mound

of rice. Server Patricia Violante from Argentina offers a bottle of green

sauce for additional heat that is made with cilantro and Peruvian aji

peppers -- a long chile with thin flesh and very hot tropical fruit

flavor.

o7 Pescado ala parrillaf7 ($10), the fish of the day, is grilled ahi

ahi served o7 chorillonaf7 style, with onions, tomato and fresh garlic

topped with fragrant cilantro. The wonderful inch-think ahi ahi is white

fleshed, moist and mild flavored, well complemented by the fresh

vegetable topping. It’s served with rice, black beans and a fiery

condiment of thinly sliced purple onions and chiles.

Creamy flan ($2.50), with its strong caramel flavor, is excellent and

goes well with o7 alfajoresf7 ($2), the crumbly shortbread Peruvian

pastry with two flaky cookies held together with caramel paste. Nico says

on a recent visit to Lima, the first thing he bought at the airport was

an alfajor and a bottle of fizzing bright yellow Inka Kola. Then he knew

he was home.

Now an American citizen, Nico says it is the Peruvian Grill that keeps

him in touch with his roots -- food he and brother Renzo are eager to

share. For Valentine’s Day, they are planning a four-course dinner based

on dishes for which Chef Nico received a first-place award from the

American Culinary Federation.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or

suggestions, call her at (562) 493-5062.

FYI BOX

PERUVIAN GRILL

* WHERE: 9606 Hamilton Ave. (at Bushard Street), Huntington Beach

* HOURS: Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch, 5 to

9 p.m. for dinner. Friday and Saturday till 9:30 p.m. Closed Sunday.

* MISCELLANEOUS: Credit cards are accepted.

* PHONE: 593-3883