Dining Review

Kathy Mader

Sometimes you learn the most useful information in the most unexpected

places. If I hadn’t returned my video to Blockbuster on time (which I

confess isn’t always the case), I might never have met Elgin, who might

never have suggested the Ocean Front Bar and Grill on the Balboa

Peninsula. Located directly across the street from Studio Cafe and tucked

in the Balboa Inn, this restaurant is right in the heart of things,

especially when summer comes.

With a large and breezy bar and patio that both open to the boardwalk and

the street, the Ocean Front Bar and Grill welcomes the passer-by and

offers the kind of casual food and drink one might wish for on a lazy

Saturday afternoon. And because summer will be big business for Ocean

Front, I suggest you go now before the crowds arrive so you can enjoy the

South American-driven decor and the upbeat salsa music at your own

leisurely pace.

Chef Geno Halaka and owner Art Hakimian came down from Lake Arrowhead to

start this cafe “on the sand at Newport” just last October and created a

combined menu of Mexican food and seafood with what I like to call

Californian influence, meaning it is a lot lighter than standard Mexican

fare, nothing on the menu has to be translated or explained, and they use

a lot of the local produce and fish.

The lunch menu, served all day and night, is the perfect walk-in kind of

food, from spicy tequila sausage ($5.95) and taquitos primos (beef or

chicken, $5.75) to fajita chicken Caesar salad ($8.95) and Cal-Mex

burger, a half-pounder with guacamole.

We tried the taquitos, one of my husband, Brian’s, favorite foods, and it

was evident that these were not the type that were sitting in the freezer

waiting for a dip in the deep fryer. They were definitely made to order,

served hot and crispy, and I can tell you that makes all the difference.

As usual, we tried about five things more than we could eat, but one of

the brightest lights on the menu is an item that brings me in on the

coldest of nights -- chicken tortilla soup ($3). Although the Mexican

clam chowder, the traditional cream-based chowder with a hint of jalapeno

and cilantro, was good, the chicken tortilla soup with its passion

fruit-marinated chicken and caramelized onions topped withcrispy tortilla

strips was muy delicioso!

The lobster tacos ($6.75) -- which you can also get with chicken, beef or

shrimp -- are served on corn or flour tortillas with shredded lettuce,

tomato, salsa, green onions and guacamole. As with anything lobster, you

can always use more lobster, but these tacos are tasty and light, a

perfect summer snack.

Ocean Front’s specialty burritos -- Elgin’s favorites -- are stuffed with

chicken or beef, cheeses, rice and beans. The fajita-guava chicken burger

($7.75) uses the same marinade as the chicken tortilla soup, a secret

combination of guava and lime, and can’t help but be good.

Because Ocean Front opens as early as 11 a.m. on the weekend, stop in for

Bloody Marys and a huevos burrito, a great way to kick off your weekend.

The dinner menu includes the traditional fajitas ($12.95), filet mignon

($19.95), sauteed scallops ($16.50) and a baked lobster tail. All of the

entrees are seemingly uncomplicated and should appeal to all kinds of

diners. The garlic cilantro shrimp dish ($16.50), shrimp with fresh

garlic and vegetables in a white wine/lime juice/cilantro saute, was

fresh and delicious. However, it did come with peel-and-eat shrimp, so

take note.

Raspberry chocolate cheesecake ($4.75), fried ice cream -- vanilla or

chocolate -- and a creamy flan ($2.75) are the highlighted desserts. My

favorite is the fried ice-cream, crispy and drizzled in semi-sweet

chocolate.

The bar is located across the patio from the dining room, which is rather

nice for all involved. The bar-goers can be as raucous as they want -- so

can the diners for that matter -- but neither has to be a part of the

other’s party. The Ocean Front Bar and Grill offers a full bar with a

complete wine list. Just a word of caution: Beware of the Long Island

iced teas. Aieee!

As an easy close to a long weekend, or the prelude to a relaxing weekend,

stroll by the Ocean Front Bar and Grill and enjoy all the food, the

drink, the atmosphere that is California.

WHERE: 105 Main St., Newport Beach (at Balboa pier)

WHEN: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday through Sunday; the bar is open until midnight

HOW MUCH: Moderate

PHONE: (949) 675-7382